• If you have a comet Goldie have it in a 90+gallon tank. +20 gallons for another fish
• If you have a fancy Goldie than 30+ gallon tank. +10 gallons for another fish.
• Have a sand with a larger grain, not gravel, large grain sand.
• + have 2 filters. (1 sponge 1 HOB)
• Do water changes and gravel vacuums 1–2x a week.
• Feed it lots of veggies.
• Feed it a good quality Goldie food.
• BE commited
• No heater, unless you live in a environment under 60 Fahrenheit, then you can have a heater, only on the coldest days though.
• Keep them with cold water fish. No plecos, no tetras, no bettas.

Reasons why:

1. Comet goldfish get to about a foot long.
2. Fancy goldfish get to 8–10 inches
3. Goldie's like to sift through the sand and look for food. Gravel can get stuck and make them choke, fine sand irritates their gills
4. Goldfish are very messy. They don't have a stomach, only intestines. Food goes straight through their system.
5. No explanation- mandatory with any tank.
6. Since it has no stomach, they can't collect as much nutrients so feed them as much as they can.
7. ^
8. Comet Goldie's live up to 20 yrs. Fancies live up to 10–15.
9. Goldie's are cold water fish and die faster at higher temperatures. A comfy range is 56–68 Fahrenheit.
10. It's just better for all the fish.

Happy fish keeping -Honor

Clean water,

A large tank,

And a friend (or more).

Sadly, most goldfish don't have these. People often believe the myths that they grow to the size of their tank or that they don't live long which leads most goldfish to have miserable lives. There's no reason for this ignorance these days with so much information available, yet people are still putting goldfish in bowls or small aquariums.

The general rule of 20 gallons (≈ 80 litres) for the first goldfish and 10 gallons (≈ 40 litres) for each additional goldfish works pretty well. It seems big but fancy goldfish get very large and produce a lot of waste so they need water to dilute the waste.

Common goldfish (like comets, shubunkin, feeder goldfish) get even bigger generally belong in large ponds. They're also very active and need space to swim around.

Goldfish also need a powerful filter and for their owner to understand the nitrogen cycle.

Once goldfish are big enough they should generally be fed pellets since these make less mess and are more nutritious than flake food.

I also recommend worming the goldfish after you bring it home since disease spreads easily through pet store tanks.

I’m not sure we can say that fish get happy, but it really does not matter. The way to make a fish’s life as good as it can be is to give it what it needs to the best of one’s ability.

LOTS of space - no crowding fish into small tanks! Regular, large water changes, at least half the volume changed every week and more often if there are problems or sick fish.

Try to feed real food all the time or at least part of the time instead of just man made foods.

Live food or frozen equivalents for the carnivores, real plants or algae for the herbivores and both for the omnivores. Chasing live foods is excellent mental stimulation and excellent food for fish, so it’s a win/win no matter how you look at it.

Don’t keep the tank lit all night just because you’re awake. Give them a regular day/night schedule - it affects their hormones if you mess that up.

Those things will go a very long way to giving fish the best possible life in an aquarium.

1. First and foremost: do NOT place it in a fishbowl. That's an easy way to suffocate and kill your goldfish.
2. Each goldfish require at least 10 gallons per fish (small ones, not KOI).
3. You can have 1 goldie in a 10 gallon tank with filter and air pump. 2 Goldies in a 20 gallon, and so on.
4. Change 20% of the water every week. Goldies are notorious ammonia producers: they fowl their water with urine pretty quick. That's why you need to change the water often.
5. Keep temp constant or you’ll make your goldie sick. When you bring a new one from the store, float him in the bag on your tank so he adjusts to the temp in your tank gradually.
6. Beware of the temp change in the water you introduce when you change the water in your tank!
7. Keep tank away from direct sun light: you'll get a bad case of algi (green covering on the walls of tank).
8. Goldies love plants: don't waste money because they'll eat them. Buy plastic plants if needed.

Those are the main ones that come to mind. There's TONS of info online. Best of luck!

Goldfish are usually very underestimated in the care they require to thrive, not just live.

Some basic goldfish info:

•They are carp, they can produce enormous amounts of waste and grow pretty big, they also produce a hormone called somatostatin (will discuss that later)

•They usually reach around a foot long given proper care, some may not get that big, some may get bigger than that but all goldfish can grow pretty big.

•Goldfish should live decades so you must be prepared to care for one for around 20 years, though the oldest goldfish lived to over 40.

The care basics:

Tank size

•Minimum of a 40 gallon tank for fancy varieties, allowing 20 gallons per fish.

•Single tails usually grow bigger than fancies so require more space, by the time they reach adult size they should have over 100 gallons (allow about 40 gallons per fish)

The general rule for tank size is to have a tank 6x the length of the fish, so for a 1 foot long fish you want a 6 foot tank.

Water quality is key to the welfare of fish, and this is very important with goldfish especially as they produce a lot of waste.

50% weekly water changes are recommended, you want to keep the nitrates in the tank under 20ppm.

Goldfish also produce something called somatostatin, it is a growth inhibiting hormone which builds up, a lot like nitrates, and can be removed through water changes, when alliwed to build up this stunts the growth of the goldfish, or any other fish in the tank, it is harmful and leads to the assumption that goldfish grow to the size of the tank.

Filtration is also important to maintain a safe environment. All fish need filters.

Beneficial bacteria grows in filter media (e.g sponges) which turns the ammonia fish produce into nitrite, then into nitrate which can be removed through water changes. Ammonia is very harmful to fish so filtration is key to turn it into something less harmful.

Goldfish need a filter that can filter at least 5x the volume of the tank per hour.

Feeding

Flakes are not a good food for goldfish, they are not nutritional, cause goldfish to take in air which can cause issues and cloud up the water.

Good food for goldfish:

•Sinking pellets

•Gel foods, such as Repashy

•Frozen foods like bloodworms

•Veg, mine love spinach

If you can provide all this then a goldfish will thrive in your care

Madras says thanks for reading

Goldfish May Be Popular, And They May Be Cheap, But That Doesn't Make Them Easy Aquarium Fish

They’re not particularly hard to keep alive…IF you understand what their needs are first. The problem is that most people don’t bother…

First the cold, hard facts…

1. You cannot keep a goldfish in a bowl. There’s not enough oxygen, there’s not enough water volume, and there’s no way of detoxifying the fish’s waste products. You keep a goldfish in a bowl, you suffocate it and burn its gills with its own urine.
2. You cannot feed a goldfish “goldfish flakes.” They are almost always made out of fish meal and little else. Goldfish are mostly herbivorous and their natural diet is algae and pond weeds. Fail to feed a goldfish food rich in fiber and their guts get impacted until they burst, cause a lethal infection, and they die.

So…what do you do? Well, a goldfish has two basic needs: good water quality, and good nutrition.

Good water quality means changing the water weekly, and creating what is known as a biofilter to change the fishes’ wastes into a form that is less toxic. The process of growing this biofilter is what is known as cycling.

Establishing Biological Cycling in Freshwater Systems

This also requires that you don’t overstock, overfeed or under-filter the tank. Test kits are a necessity for monitoring the water quality until you get a regular routine going. Ammonia and nitrite are lethal byproducts of fish waste. The biofilter turns these into nitrates, which are tolerable up to a certain point (usually somewhere between 20–40ppm, depending on the delicate-ness of the fish).

Good nutrition means feeding your goldfish a diet rich in fiber. Give it foods specifically designed for herbivorous fish, with algae, spirulina, and kelp as the main ingredients. You should also feed it soft vegetables, like cooked peas and green beans, as well as water plants if you can grow some. Small crustaceans like brine shrimp are also a useful source of fiber, and you can get them in little frozen cubes.

…Compared to the time commitment required of say, taking care of a dog, fish don’t require much work. Once the biofilter and community of life in the aquarium are established, basically you feed them every day, change the water weekly, and clean out the filter monthly. You don’t need to constantly play with them, or take them outside for walks.

But the difference lies in the fact that their needs are not something you can just guess at like you can with a dog. Taking care of a dog is very similar to taking care of a baby…taking care of a fish is not*.

So…what is the moral? Research! Read up on the basics of goldfish care before you buy a goldfish..

*Strictly speaking, a dog requires stuff like special training techniques since it cannot understand humans the way a child can, and fish generally require enriching environments and companions to be happy. But I’m basically talking about the bare minimum of “not dying” here.

If the goldfish is stable when bought, they should be able to stay in good condition with a little attention to detail. When you put them home in a plastic bag, make sure to float for half an hour and let them presume the same temperature as the water they're heading into. Pour them softly into their new home and avoid touching them for any reason whatsoever.

History reveals that during the Tang Dynasty (618 to 907 AD) ordinary carp are bred and bred as ornamental or garden trout. This varieties underwent natural mutations resulting in yellowish orange colour. This led to the selective breeding of this variety in gardens and ponds.

With the arrival of the Song Dynasty (960 to 1279 AD), the Goldfish breeding was firmly established and the Goldfish or the Goldfish Yellow is considered suitable for royalty, and people outside the imperial family were prohibited to hold them.

The Ming Dynasty (1368 to 1644 AD) brought in the practice of indoor fish breeding and it was during this period that the first occurrence of the fantail was reported.

This lively fish was introduced in Japan in 1603 and 1611, reaching Portugal and from there to other areas of Europe. By the 1620s, it had been synonymous with good fortune, and it had become a tradition to send goldfish to each other.

As the fish became more readily available, they lost their good luck charm status, but they definitely became one of the most popular pet or ornamental fish in the world.

Heres a great Goldfish Care Guide

The water in which you pour it had to be prepared with additives to extract chlorine from it before the fish touched it. Whenever the water shifts, it needs to be handled again. Make sure to secure the goldfish in the tub with their former water while waiting for the chlorine to work with the chemicals. Chlorine is going to kill the goldfish in the water.

Goldfish are very hardy and easy to care for. No one should handle the goldfish so knowing how is not a problem. The main problems are usually:

• Overcrowding. Goldfish are inexpensive which can lead to buying more fish than can live in the aquarium you buy or already have. Worse is people buying goldfish and a small bowl. Even a goldfish needs a proper amount of water to live well.
• Overfeeding. Fish in general need to eat much less than people think. Usually feeding a small amount a couple times a week is enough. More food just means more waste (either rotten food or biological waste from the fish). More waste either means a needing a better filtration system or more frequent water changes.
• Not changing the water. Even with filtration some water should be changed every week. All water used must be aged or treated to remove chlorine. You can get away without water changes if the aquarium is well planted and has a small number of fish, but this is unlikely for someone asking this type of question.

Start with an empty aquarium. Add any substrate and objects you plan to have with the goldfish. If you are going to use a filter set it up as well. Fill it with treated water and let it cycle for 2 weeks. You can get a cycle going by even just putting in a small amount of food every few days (food in without the fish is almost the same as food in that gets eaten by the fish). Only after the a couple of weeks should you add any fish. Remember to let the fish acclimate to the water, don’t just dump them in the aquarium when you get them home.

About a month ago our cleaning lady told us that they had bought their son 4 goldfish and 3 had already died. She asked me to take the survivor. I set up the aquarium, started the water cycling, and was ready when she came back with the fish a week later. Today the goldfish is fine and is a nice pet for my grandchildren when the visit.

To keep a goldfish alive, you need to provide it with the following basic requirements:

1. Proper aquarium: A minimum tank size of 20 gallons is recommended for one goldfish. The tank should also be properly filtered and heated if necessary.
2. Clean water: Regular water changes and proper filtration are important to maintain clean and healthy water conditions.
3. Appropriate food: Goldfish are omnivores and need a balanced diet of both dry and wet foods. Feed them small portions two to three times a day.
4. Suitable temperature: The water temperature should be between 65-72°F (18-22°C) for goldfish to be healthy.
5. Adequate swimming space: Goldfish are active swimmers and need plenty of room to move around.
6. Proper lighting: Goldfish need a consistent light cycle, with 8-12 hours of light and 12-16 hours of darkness each day.
7. Regular check-ups: Keep an eye out for any signs of illness and have the fish examined by a veterinarian if necessary.

Well, cold water is better so no heater necessary, just let it be at room temp. I'm assuming it's a baby, so a couple gallons will be fine. Fill the container and let the water sit for at least 24 hours if you have chlorine in your water. It will break down in that time and not harm your fish. If you can get an air pump, air line, and air stone, awesome. If not, don't sweat it since it's only 12 hours. Since gold fish tend to be messy, I'd do maybe a 50% water change about half way through because you won't have a filter cycled to change ammonia (highly toxic) into nitrate (less toxic) . Fish naturally release ammonia as their waste.

Remember that gold fish are not nearly as easy as pet stores lead you to believe. They get big. Comets can be a foot long. They are messy. They need a filter, they need regular water changes, a fancy goldfish needs 20 gallons and a comet needs 30 gallons each. Also, they eat plants like no one's business.

If you have a smaller tank as your classroom tank (like 5 gallons), I might suggest a betta. They need a heater, still need a filter, but their tank size is much more manageable for most people.

Goldfish are tropical fish. They can survive in cold water but I think that is animal abuse. They need 23° Celsius!

They need an aquarium never a bowl. That is like you living in a house of mirrors like those on fairs.

They need company and enough space.

They need oxygen in the water and water needs to be cleaned from their excrements.

So a pump and filter are a must. And needs monthly cleaning.

You also need to change 1/4 of the water monthly.

And I haven't even mangened bottom soil, sand decorations to hide in or plants. All together to do it right it will be more expensive than you think.

I would not recommend any fishtank unless you are enthousiast.

If you get the bowl and sufficient water that it’s already living in, you should be good. You can give it a tiny pinch of food, and keep the fish at room temperature (they aren’t tropical fish so don’t need heaters). Don’t overfeed it—all the food should be gone after it eats.

But if you’re taking it home in a plastic bag, then this could be dangerous. You need a place to put it—can’t keep him in the bag. Equally importantly, it needs aged water—you can’t put it in water directly out of the tap, it will kill him. Water should stand for 24 hours before fish go into it. Once you have a place to hold him, and the water is standing, let the bag float in the water for half an hour, so that the temperatures equalize gradually. Then when you open the bag, don’t dump the fish out; let the water mix gradually and the fish swim out when they’re ready. Don’t feed him right away.

When you move the goldfish to a class tank, do the same process. It really would be less stressful to the fish if you’d only move him once, but I guess that’s not an option.

Sorry, this answer will be a bit long.

Keeping goldfish can be a bit difficult since they are pretty sensitive but possible if you do it right, to keep Any fish to live to the fullest you have to give them the perfect tank conditions, and I've seen goldfish that lived up to 7 years and it is said they even live up to 10 years.

The first thing you gotta do is buy the right tank, most people buy goldfish bowls but it is much healthier to keep a fish in an average tank because it gets dirty very easily and you will have to clean it everyday, even if you do this will cause the fish a lot of stress itself, and if your fish is stressed it will have a more likely to get sick because its immunity against diseases will go down.

The second point in when getting a tank you have to buy a right size, baby goldfish are small but they can grow very large so you need atleast a 20 gallon tank for one goldfish, the bigger the tank it is the better it would be for any fish of course. Goldfish who are stacked inside smaller tanks do not grow up to their full size or their full size sadly most people do not know that goldfish can grow large. If you have a baby and a smaller tank it is fine for now but you'll need a bigger tank after a while.

Next you gotta do a cycle, never put a fish in there without doing because they will die. I usually sterilise my tank with some sort of chemical befire adding any fish or anything into it and wash it well because you don't want those stuff to remain in there and kill your fish.

Here's a wiki how article where you can learn how to cycle a tank.

How to Cycle a Fish Tank

As long as your tank stays in top condition your fish will be happy and healthy. When you get a tank put in a heater and set it to 23 or 24 Celsius because this is their preferred conditions. When your fish are happy they will thrive.

Be sure to change one fourth of the tank water with new fresh none chlorinated water at least once every 2 weeks, use a syphon to remove all the debris on the tank floor.

Also keep some sort of filter to make sure to keep your tank clean. Filters also becomes a place for all the useful micro organisms for keeping the water conditions well to them to grow in. You will have to clean up the filter, when will carry on the filter type you buy, a sponge filter.

The next thing you have to do is supply with a balence diets, these include plants, live food and I will post a in depth article about things what you can feed,

What Do Goldfish Eat? | LoveToKnow

always cyphon out all the uneaten food scraps once your goldfish had its fill, never overfeed them and make sure you feed it a lot of fiber because it will prevent from the fish getting constipation which can lead to other diseases and even death, if it does get constipated, feed it food with fiber. If all the conditions are right your fish will not get sick

However it can still get sick so you have to keep an eye. The first sign it will show if it is sick is being lethargic. If so look for other signs that could be causing it to be sick. Look for any unusual things such as torn fins, lumps on its body, spots or strings like fungus etc, it is unlikely to get sick I'd the conditions are right in the tank but learn as much as you can about diseases, this article covers some of the diseases your goldfish can get and how they are caused.

Goldfish Series - Common Goldfish Diseases | The Aquarium Guide

Sometimes it can be parasites so keep am eye for them as well.

The main reason almost any fish not live to it's given life expectancy is because they lack the right conditions to live in and get sick and die, the best way to keep them well is to provide them right conditions and prevent them from getting. Sick in the first place.

I hope this helped you.

Most important: don't overfeed. A fish can go hungry perfectly well for 12 hours. If you feed more than the fish can eat in 15 minutes, the food will foul the water and the worst case would be that the fish suffocates. If the container is too small, even if the fish does eat it all, the poop will foul the water. A tiny, tiny pinch of food is plenty.

You should have been provided with an airstone/bubbler with an air pump, at the least. Don't try to keep the fish warm. Goldfish are not tropical, and the warmer it is, the more oxygen it will need.

Don't make sudden changes to the water. Temperature, pH, hardness, all changes, need to be gradual. If the fish comes in a bag, float the bag in the larger container for half an hour so the temperature can even out. Then let a little tank water into the bag. Wait 15 min. Do it again. And again. And again. Let the fish swim out. Keep the lights low so it won't be as frightened.

If, God forbid, you only have a bag, you absolutely need an airstone, but if it disturbs the water too violently, your fish will be essentially running a marathon for 12 hours straight. Hang your bag in a container that won't tip over, but is small enough that the bag is supported. A clip clothespin will fasten it to the rim, but don't take a chance on getting soap in the water. That will kill fish. Put your airstone on the surface, not at the bottom.

You will need some kind of filter or you’ll have to change the water every 2–3 days. Ammonia builds up quickly. In a week it will kill your fish.

A small filter can be had. You needs it to pump water over a media, and the media grows a world of water filtering bacteria. The first bacteria take 10 days. Your fish will show stress from day 5–10, so you must change some water 20%) each of those days.

On days 11–30, ammonia will be no problem, but the waste the ammonia-eaters give off begets a second kind of bacteria that eat it. The second kind are also toxic, not always fatal but still dangerous to your fish’s health. Change 20% of the water every other day until a month has passed.

Your filter is now inoculated with all the right bacteria. Do not throw away this media. Always save half of it when you clean the filter once a month. You’ll see goldfish make filters quite dirty. They are the SUVs of fish.

Don’t use carbon in your goldfish filter. It changes the water chemistry and goldfish do better without it.

But a filter that lets you use poly fill for the media bed. If you use a filter with cartridges, you’ll spend money on the cartridges, wheels, and so on. It should cost less than $20 for a pump, filter, and the material.

You can use an under gravel filter plate instead, but goldfish tend to overwhelm those, and you have to vacuum every month.

Don’t forget city water must sit 24 hours before you use it for fish, or you will need chemical conditioners from the pet store.

Good luck.

A lot of beginners wanna get a jumbo sized ranchu quickly, and will 100% succeed. But… At the cost of the ranchu golsfish’s life. You see… With overfeeding and heater set to 80 degrees and above constantly. You are promoting faster growth potential for maximum growth. However. Your ranchu goldfish will live a shorter life spam. Because you are forcing it to grow 😤 I have had my ranchus for over 20 years. And they’re fine. Because I only feed them like 12 pellets per meal, twice a day ☝️ Some newbie beginners overfeed them constantly 🤷 I know it is exciting to grow your fish fast, but that also shortens their life spam. Rip cute chubby ranchus of newbie owners 🙏

Congratulations on your new furbaby! I'm already impressed by your maturity and commitment and wish you many, many years of companionship.

Some suggestions for health and longevity are:

1. Make sure to spay/neuter and to stay current with all vaccinations and parasite (flea, tick, ear mite, worm) treatments.
2. DO NOT DECLAW your cat. If you question this, do some Googling. Provide a good scratching post and/or pads. If kitty goes after the furniture give her a quick squirt with a water bottle and make a loud noise that you want her to associate with the negative stimulus. Eventually, the bottle won't be needed. Some cats still prefer the furniture to proper scratching posts. Get used to it, along with cat hair, scratches, and the sweet smell of cat butt in the morning. declawing cats - Google Search
3. Keep kitty indoors at all times. The perils of outdoor life include the obvious (traffic, ticks, fleas, cat/dog fights, coyotes and other predators) as well as less common dangers (snail bait, antifreeze, rat poison). Indoor cats, on average, live longer than outdoor or indoor/outdoor cats.
4. Provide fresh, clean water and high quality cat food, both wet and dry. Cats are carnivores, so make sure there's not a lot of grain filler. Do not overfeed. If you notice any rounding between kitty's chest and hips, cut back on food and try to increase activity. A fat cat is an unhealthy cat.
5. Play and interact with your baby frequently. Do not leave her alone for long stretches (10+ hours) every day, especially while she is young. Kittens sleep about 22 hours a day but also need a lot of stimulation and socialization so they don't get bored. If long absences are unavoidable, consider a second animal companion.
6. Get regular vet checkups, including dental care.
7. Don't smoke in the home. (My grandcat died of nasal cancer, likely a result of exposure to cigarette smoke, and it was awful.)
8. Keep the litter box clean and stocked with 2-3 inches of litter.

I'm sure I've left something out but have confidence you will be a wonderful pet parent. Good luck!

The most important thing is to never put them into a small tank not even for a few weeks.

Always give them in the largest possible tank or pond, from day one, when they are tiny fry. They grow so fast and the effects of too little space hit them hardest in their first year of life, as that is when they grow the most.

If they are fancy goldfish, ( the short bodied fish with split tails) they need a minimum of 30 gallons for the first fish and 15 gallons per fish after that. If they are commons or comets, 75 gallons for the first fish, 15 G per extra fish and frankly, they are pond fish and do best in big ponds.

Change at least half of their tank water, at least twice a week. Test the water regularly and make sure they are never exposed to ammonia or nitrite and that nitrate levels stay below 30 ppm at all times. Ideally less but, never more than 40 ppm.

Feed them well, but, not too much and don’t give any fancy goldfish any floating foods, which can cause them problems that can look like their swim bladders are in trouble. Always give them stuff that sinks.

Give all goldfish some fresh, soft or blanched greens regularly. Also give them live foods, like daphnia or mosquito larvae, at least a couple of times a week. Frozen foods work if you can’t get live foods. Never buy the cheapest fish food, because it’s junk. Buy the good stuff, which costs more but isn’t loaded with carbohydrates that fish have no use for. Fish use protein for energy, not carbs, so even the plant eaters need a fairly high protein diet.

They can live 20 years and more when given excellent care.

Do not put goldfish in a bowl. Goldfish poo a LOT and they have to have a filter. Each 1" of fish needs a gallon of water at least. So if you have 2 fish and they are 2.5" long each then your aquarium should be no smaller than 5 gallons. Attach a filter rated for about twice the size of your tank.

Set up your tank 2 - 3 days (even longer is better) before adding your fish. This lets the water grow some of the bacteria that will help keep your fish healthy.

Test the water regularly. Weekly at first, then less often as you get more comfortable with it. You can buy strips that test pH, ammonia, nitrates, nitrites and water hardness all at once.

Have a hospital tank. A smaller tank where you can quarantine sick fish while you treat them. Having a sick fish in the tank stresses the other fish and can make them sick too.

Don't buy fish at Walmart. They will die. Buy from a reputable pet store and notice if their tanks have very many sick fish. If there are dead fish in the tank, don't buy from it.

When you change out the water, use a gravel-cleaning siphon to suction up as much waste from the gravel as possible. For the first 4 weeks, replace 25% of the water weekly and 15-20% weekly after that, or whenever your water tests indicate.

Goldfish are a hardy species, a member of the carp family. They prefer static to slow-moving waters. Hence they can survive in a bowl, aquarium, or a pond. Yet there are a few facts to be aware of.

1. Goldfish are generally a cold-water species. Therefore sustained water temperatures much above 75–80 degrees F (27 C) can stress goldfish and make them susceptible to many parasites that could proliferate at that temperature. Ideally, the water temperature should remain less than 70 F.
2. Goldfish produce a lot of waste products, hence high nitrate-nitrite-ammonia levels will necessitate more frequent water changes and gravel cleaning. The single most important monitor is your own nose! The magnitude of the high-ammonia “stench” that can hover above the water surface is the tell-tale sign that water-change and cleaning is in order. The water becoming increasingly amber in color is also a sign that cleaning is in order.
3. Though goldfish can survive at low-oxygen levels in the water, good aeration of the water not only assures their oxygen needs, but it also assures the domination of the “good” bacteria (aerobic) over the “bad” bacteria (anaerobic) naturally occurring in the water environment. An air-stone in an aquarium, a fountain in a pond, and a large surface-area in a bowl - all help in good aeration and prolongs the interval between good housekeeping. Eventually however, the sheer “waste load” of goldfish will overwhelm the best aeration, deplete the oxygen, and kill your fish - if you neglect good housekeeping.
4. Unlike tropical and marine species, goldfish generally do not tolerate fast, strong water currents in their environment. Therefore if power filtration is employed in your aquarium, the discharge must be positioned so as to minimize the impact of these strong currents without compromising proper circulation.
5. Finally, the pH of the water bears monitoring. Goldfish can survive in a wide pH range (6.0–8.0) but generally prefer a slightly alkaline environment at a pH of 7.0–7.4. Unfortunately, wide pH swings can promote fin rot, fungus, and induce parasite proliferation. Since all aquarium water tends toward lower pH (increasingly acidic), adding a little NaHCO3 (baking soda) can adjust it upwards. But always remember, nothing else is better than proper water changes and gravel cleaning.

Don’t treat it like it’s “just a goldfish,” meaning “a small, short-term, useless decoration.” Treat it like any other fish. I don’t know the goldfish species’ specific needs, but these tips will increase the longevity of ALL freshwater fish. I did a pile of research and did all of these things with my first tank and didn’t lose a single fish for well over a year, except for one little guy who was uncharacteristically mauled to death by his sibling (aka, not my fault).

1. Get it a proper fish tank. That means no cute goldfish bowl, no cute little acrylic box so you can use it a a paperweight. Those are fish death-camps. Get a proper, several-gallon fish tank with glass sides, sturdy seams, and a light. Research what size tank your specific species needs, because some fish are fine in smaller tanks, and some need larger tanks. Smaller fish does not always mean smaller tank.
2. Get a 3-step water filter, so that the fish isn’t swimming around in it’s own excrement, which can burn their bodies and hurt their respiratory systems. Understand that doing regular water changes will be a part of your life going forward, because a water filter is only able to do so much. Do you want to live in a house with poop and pee everywhere? No. Neither do fish.
3. Make sure that you get the tank ready and get the ecosystem set up BEFORE YOU GET YOUR FISH*. This is called cycling your tank and can take up to two months, but if you can’t even commit to getting a tank ready for your fishy friend, you shouldn’t get a fishy friend in the first place. Research how to do a fishless cycle, or click here. Be sure to use pure ammonia, not ammonia with perfume or other cleaning agents added.
4. Get water conditioner, because almost all water from a tap contains chlorine, and this will destroy all the good bacteria you built up from cycling your tank. Use it EVERY TIME** you add new water to your tank.
5. Find out the ideal temperature range for your specific fish species and get a heater/cooler to keep the water at the appropriate temperature.
6. Periodically measure the pH and chemical levels with the kit you purchased for your tank cycling to prevent an ecosystem crash, which can harm your fish.
7. Get proper aquarium decorations, whether they be live plants or fake. Don’t use cute plastic army men or whatever, because they can leach toxins into the water. Some fish like to hide, some like to dig in sand, some like to play in plants. Research what your fish species likes and needs, and get proper decorations for the fish. be sure your decorations are properly cleaned before adding them to the tank so you don’t contaminate the system.
8. Research the social needs of your fish. Some fish like the Bumblebee Gobys HATE EVERYTHING AND EVERYONE and should be kept alone. (they’re like grumpy cat: cute but violent.) Others, like Tetras, need a few friends to thrive.
9. Research the dietary needs of your fish. Some are herbivores, some omnivores, some carnivores; make sure you have the right food. Also make sure to feel them the appropriate amounts. Some fish are a little bit dumb and will overeat which is bad for them. Others will just leave the food lying around, which makes a mess of your tank unnecessarily.
10. Get proper aquarium cleaning supplies to clean the tank - glass scrubbers to remove algae, gravel cleaners if you have gravel, etc. Consider getting a catfish or little pleco or someone like that to help with cleanup. Make sure species are compatible before adding new fish though. Be sure your hands and however much of your arm may be submerged while cleaning the tank are extremely clean themselves. Lotions, perfumes, scented soaps, etc can contaminate your water and possibly harm your fish or mess up your cycle.
11. Be aware of gender in a multi-fish tank. If you don’t want babies, then don’t have the boys and girls together. Additionally, some species will be violent and harm or kill other members of the same gender - usually males.
12. Be aware of airborne contaminants like any perfume you spray or scented candles or any other chemicals that you use near the tank that have any odour at all, and even then some that don’t, will leave residue in the air that can and will land in your tank, and these can be harmful or toxic to your little friend.

*(Cruel or ignorant people will say that you can cycle a tank using “feeder fish” which basically means getting some “junk” fish and letting them swim around in their own excrement, in pain, until the tank has cycled and then just throwing them away. These people are horrible, or criminally ignorant, and I will NOT apologize for saying that. Don’t even bother commenting about that, because I will not change my stance on this.)

**unless you use Reverse Osmosis water. RO systems are not cheap and its unlikely that you have one if you’re a beginner.

*Please note if it sounds like I am making assumptions here about what ideas you have about goldfish already or your intentions for keeping them that is not my intention, but I really felt inclined to use your question to put some points out there for people generally. The mere fact that you are asking this question shows more concern for the wellbeing of your potential pet than most people who buy goldfish have in my experience, and I commend that.

Yes and no. If provided with the necessary prerequisite habitat goldfish are extremely hardy and simple to care for. They are also extremely long lived. If you do set your fish up to live a full healthy life expect even the shorter lived fancy types to live several years to over a decade. A less genetically modified/natural comet goldfish (the kind you would likely win at a fair that is longer and has a straight non frilly tail) to live at least ten years and potentially into its thirties. The reason most people’s goldfish end up in the toilet in mere weeks to a few years is misconceptions about their basic needs, biology, and lifespan.

Basically the main reason goldfish may not be the best pet fish for many people is that they grow quite large (unless they die young) and eventually need a tank to match. Fancy goldfish need at the very smallest a twenty gallon tank for a lone fish, and there are many who would still call that cruel. They will grow to around eight inches long and are bulky fish. Comets may be a bit more streamlined, but they are more active and moreover grow over a foot. Consider a forty gallon a bare minimum with bigger being recommended for one comet goldfish. Also they do need moving oxygenated water and produce a lot of waste even for their already large size a filter, ideally a strong one that is meant for a tank even larger than you have, is essential for long term health. In other words a goldfish is one of the worst candidates for a gallon unfiltered bowl.

Aside from needing a large tank they really are very simple to keep and almost hard to kill. They are actually happier with water that is cool at least part of the year, so a heater is not only unnecessary, but not recommended. Just turn the light on and off regularly, feed carefully (watch them eat all of the food, and put in a little more until they stop eating to prevent the food from making the water dirty), change the carbon in the filter monthly, and change a quarter of the water every week or two. They produce a lot of waste, so don’t be entirely complacent about water changes, but they are far from delicate compared to most fish. They are very unpicky about water chemistry too. Ph around 7 is best, but 6–8 is fine. Just make sure it is dechlorinated (like any fish), and unless it is well water laden with heavy metals or something that you shouldn’t be drinking anyway it’s unlikely to be anything to worry about with goldfish.

So really in short they are very easy without most of the associated concerns of many other popular fish. Contrary to popular belief they just need very large aquariums in contradiction of what it seems most people want, which is a very small “cute” accessory to their home as opposed to a yard long or more aquarium with a once cute little goldfish that is now a foot long orange carp.

The thing is a comet goldish is about 30 cents, and it can live in a big bowl potentially for months or a ten gallon tank for a few years. This is far more than long enough for most people to have gotten more than their money’s worth to make their kid or themselves entertained. I’m not going to tell anyone that fish are people or even close to abusing an animal like a dog. But they are a vertebrate with a nervous system more than complex enough to consciously feel pain. Goldfish in particular having something of a memory, and may even have basic sociability with other goldfish (meaning it might be best to have at least two which only means the tank should be larger) and recognize people who feed them. I’m not of the mind that abusing goldfish is criminal, but I’m also of the mind that causing them an unnaturally short miserable life merely for amusement and decoration isn’t just fine either.

With that in mind I would just explain exactly what happens to goldfish in tanks that are too small and/or have no filter. The first thing that is likely to kill them (especially if there is no filter) is inadequate oxygen in the water. Goldfish, unlike betas, can’t breath air very effectively. If there is not enough oxygen in the water, and they are trying to gulp air from the surface, they are slowly suffocating. This is if they are lucky. The next likely cause of death is there being too much waste in the water. This burns their gills. Imagine being stuck in a room with slowly increasing levels of ammonia pumped into it, perhaps with brief reprieves to draw it out, until your lungs could no longer function. If despite cramped condition the owner is so diligent about water changes that the former two issues are mitigated lack of space will be the ultimate limiting factor. There is this myth that fish are designed not for whatever their ancestral natural habitat was but rather to grow to exactly the perfect size for whatever cute little tank people think they would look best in. It is true that in cramped condition fish can produce hormones that stunt their growth, but to the surprise of many this is not a tidy healthy thing. It doesn’t stunt organ growth as much as skeletal growth. They will slowly become deformed and be crushed from the inside out. That most likely hurts. I’m not a PETA sort of person at all. To keep things in perspective we do similar things to mammals for the sake of keeping meat inexpensive, but in that case I will say at least eating meat is generally part of a complete healthy human diet despite what many vegans think. But when it comes to purely amusement related purposes I do think it’s worth at least knowing what one is doing to any animal (any vertebrate for sure).

I’m sure this response is far beyond the purview of what you were looking for, but I find the whole issue of how goldfish are treated really quite sad. I work at a pet store, and I understand seeing things like dogs, cats, and birds, as a fundamentally different issue from fish, but it’s interesting how people will actually research and be sure to provide care aimed at reptiles and amphibians living a humane and full lifespan, but generally not for fish. Fish are easily in the same league as them in behavioral and intellectual complexity. This pervasive difference in perception is almost certainly based largely on the price tag. If you decide to get a comet gold fish with the intention that it will live and grow naturally you may well end up twenty+ years later with a foot and a half long companion carp that swims a little more excitedly when you walk in knowing that its long time food bringer is present. The necessary housing will certainly seem ludicrous compared to the price of the fish, but it’s an interesting return on investment to say the least.

Did you know that the world record ( Guinness Book of Records) for a gold fish living is 43 years. Amazing.

Here are some tips to help you increase the life of your goldfish:

1): Feeding:

Feed them just 1-2 times daily. Please do not overfeed them.

2): Fish Tank:

Purchase the largest size of tank. This increases the amount of oxygen in the water. It is extremely advisable to have the tank in place around 2 weeks before the fish.

This will allow the bacteria to build up in order to break down the fish waste. If you don't do this, then ammonia poisoning will occur which will result in death.

3): Cleaning:

It's advisable to clean the fish tank at least every 14 days. This is due to the large amount of fish waste which are produced by goldfish.

If a goldfish actually is dying a slow painful death you can euthanize them using clove oil in a deep bowl of water. I euthanized a few fish in my time as I couldn't bear to see them suffering. One of my goldfish pecked my small pearscale fish to the point of blood and the poor thing was waiting for the end upside-down (I was not at home when the attack occurred otherwise I would of removed him) another lived 3 months upside-down and couldn't get food and a 3rd had incurable fin rot. The best way to euthanize is using clove oil. You will need to look online for how much to use depending on the size of your fish. I used 50 drops in 2 litres of water mix it around well before adding the fish. The fish can flip around for a few seconds but in my experience that hasn't happened and they've gone to sleep within 30 seconds. After the gills completely stop moving your fish has passed away, but please leave the fish in there for 30 minutes before disposing of them. For larger goldfish a lot more clove oil is needed and once they are asleep they should be wrapped up and put in the freezer for a few hours before disposing. Do not add clove oil to an aquarium, you want minimum water in a bowl, enough depth to cover the fish. But please look up the amount of clove oil you will need for the size of your fish as this is an act of kindness and you don't want it to turn into an act of cruelty and suffering.

Give it a large aquarium 10 gallons minimum. Give them a little place to hide like a cave or little pagoda decoration to go to when they want to relax. Say hi to them every day, bettas will become hermit like and withdraw. They like to see you and they enjoy learning to be fed by hand. Don’t put other fish in the tank your Betta will destroy any fish in a tank except for females. Bettas need to have water changes 1 a week I like to do a 10% water change weekly and a 25% water change once a month. The happiest bettas I have seen were kept in a large aquarium 15 gallons. Have hiding places and routinely rearrange the aquarium to creat a new and interesting environment for them to explore. Don’t over feed tHem buy a high quality flake food, u can feed the a pea or a bit of lettuce to add variety and vitamins. Make sure to take out any uneaten food they will be finished in five minutes and the left over food will make the tank really dirty and unhealthy. Get a book that is about caring for Bettas and get one that offers lots of information and is detailed. Bettas are really hardy but that doesn’t mean that they don’t experience discomfort when the water parameters are unhealthy. It is painful for them just like a fish that is very sensitive and for skilled Aquarists.

1) goldfish are social you need at least 2 but 3 or more is best they can die young if not given friends

2) depending on the breed for 3 goldfish for fancy breeds you'll need around 70 gallons 3 normal breeds such as comet goldfish (aka feeders) need around 130 gallons they do best in ponds tho

3) goldfish CANNOT be kept in small tanks they're large and high waste it'll decrease their life significantly

4) goldfish can live a long time fancies around 10 years normals 20–40 years

5) goldfish are way smarter than you think there's evidence they recognize their names and they do reconized your face voice and footsteps they can be thought tricks such as eating from your hand and swimming through obstical courses etc.

1. Goldfish eat a lot and pull a lot of feces. You may have to pay attention to the frequency of water changes, and handle their feces while changing the water. Therefore, it is recommended not to put bottom sand or create too complicated scape.

2. You need to add a filter to your fish tank. Choose the filter according to the size of your fish tank and the number of goldfish. The bigger the fish tank, the more water, the more stable the water quality. The proper amount of feed, and the timely removal of unfinished food. Avoid affecting water quality.

3. If possible, add an oxygen pump to them.

4. Create an environment where day and night alternate, you can add a full-spectrum light, or place the fish tank in a place where sunlight diffuses.

The quick, flippant answer is “keep it correctly, and don’t go for an extreme body type.”

In practical terms, this means giving a baby goldfish an aquarium a lot bigger than you might think it needs - plan for the adult size of the fish. For a normal-bodied “Comet” type goldfish, this could be twelve inches nose to tailtip - which means you need a correspondingly large tank - I would personally want to give an adult goldfish a minimum of 40–50 gallons, and honestly a small indoor pond wouldn’t go amiss. They’re also a coldwater fish, and having a larger water mass will help keep temperatures more stable for them.

They poo a lot - make sure you’ve got good enough filtration to account for that, because an air stone isn’t going to cut it; you’ll also need to make sure you’re doing regular water changes to reduce the build up of noxious byproducts in the water.

And don’t over-feed - they don’t need as much food as mammals for their size.

Lastly, extreme body types - like bubble-eyes, telescopes, orandas and so on - may not live as long as the ones closer to the wild, slender body shape.

Just how long do you think you would have if you were raised your entire childhood in a tiny said that was never cleaned, sitting in your own excrement from sun up to sundown every single day,, and your parents just put your food on the floor and you had to eat food that was contaminated with it

This is what life in a bowl is for a goldfish,

What's the right condition, a goldfish can grow to more than six inches long and they can live about as long as your cat

They should really be living in a 50 gallon tank with a nice filter and a variety of different foods

If you can install a koi pond into your yard which is a few thousand gallons, that will be much better too

To keep successfully goldfishes please follow these measures…………

1.) Get a large enough tank. The minimum tank size for one goldfish is 10-15 US gallons (56.7 liters)(Remember, they grow to about 10-12 inches (25.5-30.5 centimeters), and sometimes over!) and you will need to add 10 U.S. gallons (37.8 liters) onto that for each additional goldfish. Do your research about all different kinds of goldfish. Common goldfish, comet goldfish, and other single tail goldfish need ponds or huge tanks as they can grow up to a foot or more in length. Don't get single tails unless you have a 180 US gallon (681.4 liter) tank laying around or a pond into which you can transition them when they get too large.

• For decades goldfish have been depicted in small bowls, that's why they're synonymous with short life spans as ammonia builds up quickly in such a small space and the environment becomes toxic. In order to increase your goldfish's length (and quality) of life, give it a decent-sized aquarium.

2.) Use gravel that won't get stuck in your fish's throat. Use either large gravel (too big to swallow) or very small gravel. Large gravel is better for goldfish because it won't get caught in their throat and because goldfish like to be able to dig into the gravel to search for fallen food.

• Be sure to clean your gravel before you put it into the tank. Even if you have just bought it, a good rinse and soak in some water for a day will draw out some of the impurities and help ensure that your goldfish are getting the best environment to flourish in. Make sure to not use soap.

3.) Make sure your tank has some scenery and light. Goldfish are diurnal which means they are active during the day. They need light to maintain a healthy wake/sleep cycle. There is also evidence that light is necessary to keep your fish's colors bright.

Fish that can't sleep well or aren't getting enough sunlight are going to lose their color and become dull. Keep your aquarium lit for around 8-12 hours each day to replicate a healthy day/night cycle if it does not receive natural sunlight. Never put your tank in direct sunlight, either, as this could cause large temperature fluctuations and contribute to rampant algae growth.

• Think about putting a rock or wood centerpiece with some artificial greenery into your aquarium. The rock or wood will give the goldfish nooks and crannies to explore and the artificial plants won't accelerate plant growth in your tank. Goldfish thrive with minimal decoration. They are typically chubby and poor swimmers, so having fewer obstacles means they can swim more freely. Consider having one medium to large statement piece in the center of the tank and a few plastic plants located outside of the swimming pattern to give your fish the most usable space.
• Real plants are beneficial because they help absorb some of the ammonia, nitrites and nitrates that accumulates in the aquarium because of waste and natural wear and tear. However, goldfish are omnivores and voracious eaters. Stick with artificial plants until you have the time and resources to keep real plants safe from hungry goldfish.
• Be sure that any decorations you choose aren't hollow (it's a breeding ground for potentially harmful bacteria) and that they don't have sharp edges (your fish might tear its fins).
• Try using fluorescent lights for your goldfish. Halogen lights and incandescent lights will also do. Pay attention to how much light you give them — goldfish will appreciate 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness.

4.) Rig up a water filter. Goldfish need a filter. A water filter should have 3 stages: Mechanical, for removing large particles such as fish waste or excess food; chemical, for removing odors, discolorations, and other organics; and biological, to break down fish waste and ammonia with beneficial bacteria. It should also be rated for the size of your tank. If your tank is on the borderline between two sized filters, it is usually better to go with the larger filter. Having clean water and a functional, efficient filtration device will keep your goldfish content and healthy. There are three very popular kinds of filters:

• Hang on back (HOB) filters, which hang on the rim of your tank, and bring water in and filter water out. They are very popular, reasonably priced, and probably give you the most bang for your buck.
• Canister filters sit underneath your aquarium and use a series of tubes to filter water in and out. Canister filters tend to be almost silent, are a little pricier than HOB filters, but tend to be more efficient at filtering than HOBs. Canister Filters are also typically made for tanks in excess of 50 gal (About 189 Liters), and so are usually not available for smaller tanks.
• Wet/Dry filters use an overflow box to filter out impurities. Wet/Dry filters, however, are significantly bigger than HOBs or canisters, and so generally only fit into aquariums that hold at least 50 gallons (189.2 liters).

5.) Fill the tank with water. When you get your tank, fill it with tap water that has been treated with an appropriate water conditioning solution. Or, you could use distilled water.

• Untreated tap water or drinking water has chemicals and minerals that could harm the fish.

6.) Fill the tank with water. When you get your tank, fill it with tap water that has been treated with an appropriate water conditioning solution. Or, you could use distilled water.

• Untreated tap water or drinking water has chemicals and minerals that could harm the fish.

Upkeep and feeding:-

1.) Add your fish.Hopefully, if you have more than one goldfish, your goldfish are all the same type. Unfortunately, goldfish are known to eat other, smaller fish, and can overeat, keeping food from their peers. If another fish is smaller or slower, it doesn't stand a chance. You can use a commercially available tank divider to keep your “bully” or weaker fish apart from the other(s).

• So you really want to add more fish, huh? Alright, then White Cloud Mountain Minnows or Zebra Danios it is (if your goldfish isn't humongous). However: These fish live in schools, so if you're buying extra fish, you need to at least buy an extra half dozen. So in short: Keep your goldfish with other similar goldfish.Any new fish brought into an established aquarium should be quarantined for two weeks beforehand. If they have any diseases, you don't want those spread to your healthy fish!Keep in mind that goldfish like colder water than most community fish, so any other species you add to the tank should be hearty. (You could also consider adding a goldfish to a tank with overly-productive livebearers to eat the unwanted offspring and keep your fish numbers in check.)

2.) Clean the aquarium at least once every week. even if it doesn't look dirty. Goldfish produce waste that even your water filter won't be able to zap. A clean tank means happy, healthy goldfish. And a happy, healthy goldfish can live for decades! Soap is poisonous to fish and will kill them quickly, so don't wash your tank with soap. Also, don't use regular tap water to put in your tank. Drinkable water is not good for them because it takes out some of the minerals which are good for goldfish. Buy a water conditioner at a pet store and put in the amount it says on the label.

Do not remove the fish from the tank when you clean. Using a gravel vacuum to soak up debris can be done without extracting the fish from their habitat. If you have to remove the fish, for whatever reason, use a plastic container instead of a net, if possible. Nets can injure goldfish fins more easily than containers can. They are also scared of nets and can cause them stress.

Perform a 25% water change weekly assuming you have stocked your tank properly. Do a 50% water change whenever the nitrates reach 20. It can help to have a few old towels around for this messy process. Just be careful not to vacuum up any teeny fish while you're changing the water. even if it doesn't look dirty. Goldfish produce waste that even your water filter won't be able to zap. A clean tank means happy, healthy goldfish. And a happy, healthy goldfish can live for decades!

Soap is poisonous to fish and will kill them quickly, so don't wash your tank with soap. Also, don't use regular tap water to put in your tank. Drinkable water is not good for them because it takes out some of the minerals which are good for goldfish. Buy a water conditioner at a pet store and put in the amount it says on the label.

• Do not remove the fish from the tank when you clean. Using a gravel vacuum to soak up debris can be done without extracting the fish from their habitat. If you have to remove the fish, for whatever reason, use a plastic container instead of a net, if possible. Nets can injure goldfish fins more easily than containers can. They are also scared of nets and can cause them stress.
• Perform a 25% water change weekly assuming you have stocked your tank properly. Do a 50% water change whenever the nitrates reach 20. It can help to have a few old towels around for this messy process. Just be careful not to vacuum up any teeny fish while you're changing the water.
• Weekly assuming you have stocked your tank properly. Do a 50% water change whenever the nitrates reach 20. It can help to have a few old towels around for this messy process. Just be careful not to vacuum up any teeny fish while you're changing the water.

3.) Measure for ammonia, nitrite, and pH. Remember that test you did before you added your precious little fish? You gotta keep that up! Ammonia and nitrite levels should be at 0. A range of pH 6.5-8.25 is fine.

4.) Feed your fish 1-2 times daily. Be careful not to overfeed them, only feed them what they can eat in a minute, the label on the food is wrong. Goldfish can easily overeat and can die. Underfeeding is always preferable to overfeeding. If you use floating food, soak it in water for a few seconds before feeding so that it will sink. This reduces the amount of air the fish swallows while eating, which in turn reduces the risk of buoyancy problems.

• Just like humans, goldfish want diversity of nutrition. Feed your goldfish pellet food most of the time, live foods, such as brine shrimp, some of the time, and freeze-dried foods, such as mosquito larvae or blood worms, every once in a while. Remember to soak freeze dried food in a cup of aquarium water before you feed to your goldfish, freeze dried foods expand in a goldfish's stomach, causing to have problems swimming.
• Feed your fish only what they can eat in one minute. Remove any excess food. More goldfish die from overeating than from anything else.
• Feed your goldfish at the same time each day (once in the morning, once at night) and in the same spot in the tank.

5.) Feed your fish 1-2 times daily. Be careful not to overfeed them, only feed them what they can eat in a minute, the label on the food is wrong. Goldfish can easily overeat and can die. Underfeeding is always preferable to overfeeding. If you use floating food, soak it in water for a few seconds before feeding so that it will sink. This reduces the amount of air the fish swallows while eating, which in turn reduces the risk of buoyancy problems.

• Just like humans, goldfish want diversity of nutrition. Feed your goldfish pellet food most of the time, live foods, such as brine shrimp, some of the time, and freeze-dried foods, such as mosquito larvae or blood worms, every once in a while. Remember to soak freeze dried food in a cup of aquarium water before you feed to your goldfish, freeze dried foods expand in a goldfish's stomach, causing to have problems swimming.
• Feed your fish only what they can eat in one minute. Remove any excess food. More goldfish die from overeating than from anything else.
• Feed your goldfish at the same time each day (once in the morning, once at night) and in the same spot in the tank.

6.) Let the water temperature change as the seasons change. Goldfish don't like temperatures over 75°F (24°C), but they appear to like seasonal changes where the temperature dips to the high 50s or 60s (15-20°C) in the winter. Understand that goldfish will not eat below 50-55°F (10-14°C).

• A good thermometer makes this pretty easy. There are two types to choose from: those that hang inside and those that hang outside. Both should be accurate enough, but I like the ones that hang on the inside better.
• If you're not breeding your goldfish, a steady temperature all year-round of 74°F (23°C) is golden. If you are breeding your goldfish, simulate the seasons (goldfish spawn in the spring). Start off by lowering the temperature ("Hey, guys, must be winter!") to somewhere between 50°F (10°C) and 54°F (12°C). Then, when it's baby-making time, up it to between 68°F (20°C) and 74°F (23°C) gradually. The goldfish will be cued to then lay their eggs.

Dealing with Potential Problems:-

1.) Check the oxygen level in the tank. If you notice your goldfish are congregating to the surface, odds are there isn't enough in the water. But good news! Oxygen levels will raise with a temperature reduction. So lower the temperature or get your aquarium out of the sun -- hopefully, crisis averted. or you can get a bubbler and an air pump to move the water.

• If you've read all of this page, you're aware of the most common problems -- so you can avoid them! As long as you maintain appropriate pH, ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and oxygen levels, don't overfeed your fish, and clean the tank, you've answered 95% of your pets' possible problems. Good for you!

2.) Fix cloudy aquarium water. Sometimes even when we put forth our best efforts, things still go a bit awry. Water can turn yellow, green, or even white. If you notice it straight away, it's not a big deal. But do get to cleaning your tank!

Each color of the spectrum signifies a different problem. It could be algae, bacteria, or even just decaying plant matter. Don't get too alarmed! With another cycle and a water change, your fish should be fine.

3.) Watch for goldfish ich. One of the most common goldfish diseases is Ich -- where the fish get little white spots on their bodies and fins and have difficulty breathing. It's a parasite that's totally curable. Move your fish to a hospital tank and use a commercially available fungicide.

The important thing to do here is to isolate your fish from other living things, including plants. The parasite can spread to any plant or animal that's living.

If you notice white spots on your gravel or scenery, remove the chemical stage of your filter and treat the whole tank. Keep the sick fish separated, as it will likely need more medical care than your healthy fish.

You can also attempt non-chemical alternatives such as increasing the water temperature or adding high levels of aquarium salt. Temperatures of 85F (29C) will kill most strands of ich, as will about a tablespoon of salt per gallon.[6] Make sure to increase the temperature or add salt slowly over time, no more than 1-2 degrees F per hour or 1 tsp/gal per 12 hours, and continue treatment for at least 3 days after all signs of infection disappear. Once completed, perform frequent partial water changes to remove salt or reduce temperature. Be prepared for a loss of color or vibrancy in your treated fish.

4.) Monitor for Flukes. Another parasite that's a common culprit is Flukes. If infected, your fish will scratch against surfaces, develop an outer mucus, redden slightly, and possibly get a swollen belly. You to the rescue!

As with any fish parasite (just like with Ich), quarantine your fish. He can be back swimming with his finned friends in a few days if you tackle it head on from the beginning.

5.) Look for swim bladder disease. This one's pretty easy to identify, as your fish will be swimming sideways or even upside-down. You'd think he was up in fishy heaven, but no such luck. But there is luck in that it's not contagious and it can be readily fixed.

For this one, you may not need to quarantine your fish. Swimbladder disease is not a parasite. However, if you'd like to err on the side of caution, do so.

Medication is usually not needed to cure swim bladder diseases as over- or improper feeding are typically the cause. Reduce the amount you’re feeding your fish, or better yet, put them on a fast for about 3 days. This gives your fish’s gut bacteria time to return to normal. If symptoms persist, consider changing their diet to include more high-fiber foods like peas or cucumbers, or using a medicated fish food specifically to treat internal infections.

6.) If a fish has died, take the proper measures. First things first, dispose of your fish in a way that won't stink up the house. You can bury it, or, if you feel so inclined, throw it in the compost heap. Do not flush the fish down the toilet! Grab it from the tank with a plastic bag around your hands, invert the bag, and tie it up. How you clean your aquarium depends on your situation.

• If only one fish died, hopefully it was a parasite that you saw quickly enough so as to avoid it spreading to the other creatures in the tank.
• If all your fish are dying or dead, you'll need to clean out your aquarium entirely with a bleach solution. Just 1/4 of a teaspoon (a dash) for every gallon (3.8 liters) of water should do the trick. Let it soak for an hour or two to get rid of all the toxins. Then, remove the water and let it dry out.

Well that’s all….hope it will help.