Have you changed your bird’s diet from when the bird was eating? What are you feeding your bird? The food you are giving your bird MIGHT BE SPOILED or even unsuitable. What are you feeding your bird? You haven’t said what species of bird you have. Now I have kept budgerigars for over 30 years and I ALWAYS gave them the BEST of everything, including BEST seed. They ALWAYS got Trill budgie seed. Make sure you are giving the CORRECT SEED for the species of bird that you have. If it isn’t that, then the food will be SPOILED, change the seed, clean out the seed feeders or cups and offer fresh seed. If that doesn’t work, then your bird might be ill. Have you checked your bird’s droppings inside the cage? A healthy bird WILL excrete dark green feces with white in the middle. If the fecal droppings are watery, the bird is poorly and may have caught a chill, just keep the bird warm and the bird will recover him/herself. If the bird’s droppings are oily, the bird is ill. Is the bird CHIRPING alright? Does the bird sound poorly when the bird CHIRPS? If so the bird is poorly. Does the bird stretch her neck, like he/she is choking? If so, this is a disease that birds are prone to and you can remedy this by purchasing FUCUS VESICULOSUS 6X soft tablets from the Holistic pharmacy. It is caused by a thyroid disease and what you need to do when you get these soft tablets, is to dispense one soft tablet onto a clean teaspoon straight from the stock bottle and place that soft tablet into a clean mug or cup, add 2 or 3 teaspoonsful of filtered or still mineral water to the cup and crush the tablet and mix in with the water. Next, you need to empty the water dispenser on the bird’s cage and pour one tenth of the mixture into the water tube and then top up with fresh water and do this daily until you see some improvement then stop. Give that to the bird. If the bird is NOT drinking water, then you will need to buy an eye dropper from the pharmacy and suck the mixture up by squeezing the bulb of the eye dropper, then you will have to manually put two drops of the mixture into the bird’s mouth and do this twice daily until you see some improvement then stop. Difficult, I know, but it has to be DONE. Bird’s are prone to developing thyroid disease and it WILL stop them from eating. You must do this to help your bird. Once the bird has recovered, you need to purchase ORAL LIQUID IODINE for birds and the instructions for use are CLEARLY STATED on the label. You must give your bird liquid iodine on a regular basis, otherwise the problem will return. I hope you discover what is ailing your bird, but like I said, it is usually a thyroid disease. If it is not that, you bird may have enteritis and you can tell if the bird has enteritis by looking at the loose droppings on the bottom of the cage and in which instance, your bird will need antibiotics and if your bird is NOT drinking then you will have to administer this via the bird’s mouth. One last thought, DON’T keep your bird in a DRAUGHTY environment, okay? Keep the bird warm and comfortable. GOOD LUCK.

Parakeets though small are very intelligent and very special little birds. For the love and happiness they give you they deserve nothing less than the best care you can give them. If this is not normal behavior then your bird is having a problem. Your worry is telling you something. Listen to it! If you notice any changes in your parakeet such as those you mention or any other out of the ordinary behavior, get the little bird to a good avian vet as soon as possible. Parakeets can die very quickly. It seems the entire world is at work trying to kill them. Even fumes from cooking or cleaning house will kill them in minutes or seconds. My two little Budgies just died two weeks ago. I’m a crusty old guy who has had a hellish life. And though I’ve never cried at any funeral of friends or family, I’m embarrassed to admit I cried like a baby when my two little friends died. I know a lot about Budgies and the over fifty common things in every home that are instant death to them. Due to stresses in my life, I wasn’t thinking and I screwed up and they were the ones who paid the price; they died. They put their trust in me and I let them down in the worst possible way. This was and is still a tragedy for which I will never forgive myself. Even my friends and neighbors are heartbroken. Until the day I found a lost Budgie, got her a companion and brought them home to live with me I considered this type of grief over a little bird crazy talk. Now I understand why people make such a fuss over them. They are the smallest members of the parrot family but just as smart and endearing as their bigger cousins. I’ve never had a closer bond with a pet of any kind. If you spend time with your parakeet they will see you as part of their flock and they will learn to understand you. They will each learn their names and my birds even had a name for me. I would have never noticed if it were not for the tones I learned from speaking Mandarin. Though I’ll never know for sure if the name they chose for me was complimentary or an inside joke. I always let my birds have run of the house while I was home. All I had to say was, “bedtime guys“ and they would go hop in their cages and get ready for sleepy time. At times they would fuss like spoiled children because I did spoil them. But no matter what when I uncovered their cages in the morning everyday was a happy celebration to them. They are great for maintaining their humans positive attitude and relieving stress. If you have a bad day some time spent with your parakeet will make you forget about it. They are the best therapists one could hope for. Get your parakeet to the vet ASAP and learn all you can about keeping your bird alive for as long as possible. YouTube is full of good information. Even some of the toys and other things sold at pet shops will kill them. The pet shops don’t care the more birds you replace due to death, the more money they make. A Budgie is a bird that should never be purchased without first putting in the time and effort to learn how to properly take care of them. Anything less is irresponsible and will cause the bird unnecessary suffering and a shortened life span. Parakeets are much more work and money than most people think. But they deserve it and earn every bit of time and money spent on them.

My African grey was the same way. I had made the mistake when hand-feeding him formula/mash of not introducing regular foods early on in the second month or so, plus he also didn’t have other birds to model eating regular foods. I could not get him to eat pellets and regular foods until he was over five months old. He would just look at the foods and not try to pick them up or put them in his mouth. I tried whatever I could think of to entice him, but it just didn’t compute in his little brain that these were yummy foods meant to eat. Like your bird, he didn't know how to eat.

But he is 16 years old now, so obviously he figured it out at some point.

What helped for us was making the food similar to his baby mash and also as enticing as possible, plus modeling eating it myself (which involved much ooo-ing and ahh-ing). Specifically:

• I would mash or cut up soft foods into very tiny pieces. My grey was used to mushy, so I started with fully mashed foods, overcooking vegetables and beans and cooking fruits and then mashing them, even if it meant slightly lowered nutrition for the time being. Him learning to eat was the priority. I also warmed the foods, as he was used to the hand-fed warm mash.
• I made sure the foods were really wet, as that was what he was used to in the mash, using water, extra virgin olive oil, and/or apple cider vinegar.
• I used lots of spices and herbs in the mash, which are healthy for birds and they love - though it took my grey a long time to figure out that love lol. Birds have only about ten percent of the taste buds we have, so you can go liberal on the spices and do weird combinations and they tend to like it (such as mixing cumin with cinnamon). Using black, white pepper, or red pepper (cayenne) or other hot spices like curry or chili powder is also great. Parrots lack capsaicin (the heat component in peppers and chilies) receptors, so they can tolerate really spicy foods. The heat will be subtle for them, but it will add an enticing component.
• If you syringe feed, you can use foods like watered-down mashed cooked bananas or sweet potatoes in the syringe to get him used to the taste of new foods. If you tube (crop) feed, I don't think replacing the mash with other foods would help, as your bird wouldn't taste the food anyway.
• I used to set the food in a bowl in front of my bird, then grab some out with my fingers and eat it in front of him, exaggeratedly lavishing, ooo-ing and ahh-ing, like one would with a picky-eater small human child. (Oftentimes I would fake him out and not eat the weird combinations of course - eggs with cinnamon and cayenne - nah).
• Most of these foods I did end up eating myself or they went to waste, but one day, my grey started to catch on. He started with licking foods. Hahaha! Smartest parrot species on the planet, and my sweet guy couldn't figure out he needed to bite and chew. He then got the swallowing part, but while licking worked for liquidy mashes, he couldn't get down even a soft banana by licking it. I kept persisting and modeling biting and chewing for him. I decided he had to figure it out at some point. And he did.

The first food he finally bit into and chewed and swallowed was some soft salmon with olive oil. I was elated. Once he figured out the chewing part, we were off to the races. It took about seven weeks to get him to that point, from about age three and a half months to just over five months. It was not difficult, but I remember being oftentimes frustrated and a little concerned, but he figured it out finally, and I'm sure yours will too. :)

Parrots are considered feeders of the forest, and yes, anyone who owns parrots knows half of what they are “eating” ends up on the ground. Sometimes this dropping or throwing of food is result of picking through and tossing out what they least prefer to get to the good stuff, but we find parrots will do this even when this is not the case: Let’s pull out this yummy almond, take a bite, then chuck the rest. Ooh, there’s another almond. Let’s do that again.

I really love it when one of my birds accepts a piece of food from my hand, just so they can fling it away. Thanks, bird.

Anyway, such behavior in the wild is hardly a waste, as it feeds the ground insects and other animals, provides micronutrients and compost for the soil, and aids in germination of seeds. But in domesticity, the flinging of sweet potato onto the side of your fridge is less than optimal.

You might do an online search of no-mess acrylic parrot bird feeder, and you will find, amongst others, this one: No-Mess Bird Feeder Parrot Integrated Clear Feeder for Small to Large Birds New | eBay

I have two of these on my cages, and they work great at reducing my birds’ flying pellets. It doesn't eliminate all mess and waste, but it greatly reduces it.

The units simply hook onto the outside of the cage where there is an external-access feeding door. They come in different sizes to accommodate little budgies to large macaws, and yes, your in-between African grey.

I don't use them for fresh foods, like fruits and veggies, as they would be a pain to clean, but you could if you like. I know for dry food, it really helps contain the mess and reduce waste. And once my birds got used to them, they really like them - and not just for eating. My grey likes to stick his head in and talk into his, as the acoustics are muted, and I think he likes the effect; he sounds like he is in a tunnel lol. My eclectus used to like to perch and sometimes sleep on the perch. I think he felt safe in it, and it was a nice change of view. And my conure likes to sit on top of them.

For wet foods, I usually set my birds up on the kitchen counter and just expect to clean up the (extensive) mess after. I find it easier than cleaning spewed foods all over their cages. But the acrylic feeder is a big help with the dry mixes.

“What are some signs that your bird is sick? How will being sick affect your bird if it is left untreated?”

Birds are notorious for hiding illness. Hiding illness is a survival instinct, because a sickly appearing or weak bird becomes a good target for a predator.

If you are seeing signs of illness, it is time to seek immediate medical treatment from an avian veterinarian. If ill and left untreated in most cases the bird will die.

What are the signs or symptoms? Really ANYTHING out of the “normal” for your bird (or abnormal behavior for the species of wild bird). Therefore, one should know their bird well and always be observant of its appearance and behavior.

Some basic and general indicators are :

Any increase or decrease in normal behavior or activity.

Always having its feathers “puffed” or “fluffed” up.

Keeping its head, wings or tail in an odd position or movements (or lack of normal movement), such as dropping of head, wings, tail or fluttering/shaking/twitching of head, wings, tail.

Lack of grooming. Dirty or unkempt appearance.

Changes in eating and drinking habits.

Any appearance of injury. Either obvious sight of injury or unusual movement like limping or favoring of a body area.

Increase or decrease in breathing and / or unusual sound of breathing.

Any drainage or discharge from its eyes, mouth or nares (breathing holes at the top of its beak). Also if one or both of its eyes appear dull, red, “cloudy” or swollen. Same goes for its tongue, ie change of color or “patches” on tongue, dry/cracked or swollen. Keeping beak open all the time (appears to be “mouth breathing”).

Changes in the amount, frequency, color, odor or texture of its output/bowl movement.

Loss of feathers (not related to normal molting), due to possible mites.

Sleeping too much or not sleeping.

Changes in its vocalizations.

Any obvious weight changes.

If the bird is an adult female (applicable to pet birds), an increase in frequency and number of eggs being laid. Increase in size or shape of rump area and no egg is laid (this is called “egg bound” due to egg being stuck, if left untreated usually leads to death). Any abrupt changes in breeding behaviors of either male or female (again in reference to pet birds).

The above are only the most common and not a complete list.

Now lets look at what to do:

If it is a wild bird that appears sick, do not approach or handle it. With the issues of infectious avian diseases it is best to contact the local authorities. If one doesn't know exactly who would be the best to contact in their area, then they can call the Non-Emergency number of their closest police despatch or 411 if available in their area and ask for information about who to contact (most likely wildlife management services for rural or animal control service for urban). Make a report and leave it to the professionals.

If it is one's pet bird, contact and take it to an avian veterinarian. If there are more than one bird in the home, then separate the sick from the well. Clean any shared area and items with bird safe cleaner. Keep an eye on any other bird that may have had contact with the one that is ill. One should have a “sick room” or area to keep the bird until well. Once the bird has been seen, evaluated and treated, be sure to do a deep cleanup of all items and areas that the bird has had contact (one should always only use bird safe cleaning supplies, which are available at most pet shops or online sites that have bird supplies). The person handling the sick bird should not have contact with other birds or bird used items until they have washed well and changed at least their outer clothing (then wash that clothing well).

Always follow care institutions and complete the full treatment prescribed by the avian veterinarian and keep the veterinarian up to date on the birds condition.

This answer is only a basic guide and should not replace seeking advice and care of an avian veterinarian or wildlife management staff.

The very first sign is if your parrot drops weight suddenly. It may not eat or drink, don’t let this continue for more than a day. If the bird sits at the bottom of the cage for extended periods of time and is puffed up, your bird may be sick (and probably is). This is an emergency and you should get your bird into an avian or exotic animal vet immediately.
Keep a watch on the poop. If it is runny, that may be in indication that there is something wrong.
Watch your bird’s breathing. If it is labored or if the bird is breathing through its mouth, it needs to get into be seen and get some antibiotics. Also, listen to the bird when it’s breathing. If there is a ‘clicking” sound with every breath, it’s a good indication of a respiratory infection and should be seen immediately.

The bird will also be quieter than normal, and lethargic. The eyes will be dull, and it will not be as active as usual.

One thing that you must remember about birds…they are very good at hiding illness until it’s almost too late, so anytime you even suspect that your bird may be sick, take it to the avian or exotic animal vet immediately. Dog and cat vets are not as knowledgeable about exotic animal, such as birds, and many won’t even see a bird because they don’t know about them. But in a pinch, a dog/cat vet is better than no vet at all, and sometimes they can even work with an avian vet over the phone.

Good luck!

Image by Marta Kulesza from Pixabay

If you notice that your bird is not as active as usual and is not eating as much, there might be a problem. It's important to rule out any serious health concerns before assuming anything is wrong, but here are six possible causes of an inactive or listless bird:

1. Your bird may be feeling sick. If you notice any droppings or feathers scattered around the house or cage, your bird may have parasites such as mites, fleas, and lice. Parasites can affect a bird's appetite and energy level. It can also have a bacterial infection that needs to be treated with antibiotics. Make sure to keep track of the bird's symptoms, so you can tell if they improve after treatment. If you're not sure what could be wrong with your bird, take it to a vet for an examination.

2. Your bird may be stressed out. If the bird is constantly being disturbed, moved around, has new people in the house, or new pets, it might be feeling scared and uncomfortable.

3. One possible cause of an inactive or listless bird is a problem with its appetite. Birds can lose interest in food if they don't feel hungry, and may not eat as much as they usually would. If the bird isn't eating enough, it may become weak and unable to fight off disease or predators. If you think your bird might be sick, take it to a vet for a checkup.

4. Another possible reason for an inactive or listless bird is overcrowding. When birds live in cages or aviaries that are too crowded, they often struggle to fly or move around easily. This can make them less active and less likely to find food. If you have more birds than you need, try to reduce the number of birds in your home, or get a bigger cage or aviary for them.

5. If your bird doesn't have enough toys or playtime, it may become inactive due to lack of stimulation.

6. You can also try changing its environment. A change in scenery might help stimulate your bird's activity and appetite. Move it to a new room or house, set up a playpen outside, or add some new toys to its cage.

Please dont not put paper on his food. Your bird is extremely lonely and stressed. Please get him/her a companion ASAP.

Your bird is extremely stressful, and before it dies because of loneliness and depression, please get another bird. You always need to get birds in pairs. If someone keeps you alone in a cage, after dealing with this isolation, how will you feel? unhappy, depressed, and sad, right?

It is cruel to get birds from a pet store because you're separating them from the other birds in their enclosure. They do get attached to other birds at the store. But to avoid the stress of separation and for the better mental and emotional health of a budgie or lovebird, it is always recommended to get them in pairs or more than one. Also, you can get them from shelters (sometimes they have bonded pairs).

Here are some notes that I put together for my birds this will be applied to small to medium-sized birds as well. Maybe you will also find them helpful. Here, the goal is to share knowledge, not to offend you

Take care of birds (Get a bigger, medium-sized cage always)

Firstly, It’s always recommended to get birds in pairs. They get stressed and lonely by themselves. This sadness can cause them to catch diarrhea, which can be life-threatening. If you have a budgie, male or female, I would recommend you get another bird.

A) Things in the Cage:

1) Cuttlebone (naturally trims beak/nails and gives them calcium for stronger bones)

2) Millet

3) Trail Mix - 1 container

4) Seed Pallet medley (easily available at any pet store) - 1 container

5) Water (you may want to change it frequently, sometimes they poop in it) - 1 container

6) Toys (only cork/natural grass one, also 1 mirror - don't give them fabric or rope toys it can cause tumors)

B) Birds like Cleanliness: Paper towel and gravel paper (available at a pet store or Walmart) at the bottom of the cage so that you can replace it every day - birds really like the cleanliness

C) How do you make your bird feel secure and at home? Cover three sides of the cage with breathable fabric (not too thick); this will give the budgie a sense of security.

D) Maintaining Temperature: They are sensitive to too-cold or too-hot temperatures. You need to make sure that the temperature around their cage is 75-76 F. There are some heaters for bird cages that you can buy (but make the sure size of hearing matches the cage size - you don't want a big heater in a small cage)

E) Bird Sleep: They must get 10–12 hrs sleep. Birds must go to perch by 6–6:30 PM, dim/turn off the light, cover the cage with breathable light cotton fabric (make sure the front of the cage is half covered and there is enough flow of oxygen), and put the cage in a quieter place. Before they go to the perch, make sure they drink enough water and eat enough seeds/treats. They poop a lot; therefore, it's important for them to eat enough before they go to perch.

Move her cage to a quieter part of the house, preferably somewhere it won’t be traumatized by things it sees out the window (large scary birds, cats, dogs, traffic, loud people).

The location within the room also matters. The best place is in a corner with 2 walls “for protection”, and about chest high. If your bird is caged too low, it can become anxious, and if it is higher than eye level, your bird may behave aggressively (height = superiority).

Ideally it is a quiet non-threatening room, but still gives your bird lots of human interaction. If your house has loud, aggressive ,“scary” small children or pets, it should not be in that room.

Where NOT to put a bird cage:

1. The kitchen. The changes in temperature from cooking, cleaning products, and fumes from heated oils (and nonstick cookware) can kill your bird.
2. Near a heating vent or a very drafty window. The changes in temperature will stress your bird further.
3. In the center of a room. Birds like to have a protected area to retreat to when they feel anxious - being in the middle of the room provides no shelter, where a wall (or better, 2 walls in the corner) do.
4. Anywhere that volatile chemicals are used (sprays, paints, air fresheners, smelly glues). These airborne chemicals can kill your bird or make them very sick, even in trace amounts.

There's naturally going to be waste when it comes to birds, because of how they eat. They forage, and sort of…root through the food.

In our house the “waste" is what our girl chooses to “share" with…umm…throw at the dogs. Her dried banana slices from her dry mix, which she hates…get tossed. Whole pieces of pepper also get tossed. The dogs ignore those, though.

At first I worked at portion control. Finally, I tried different sized scoops to see which wasted the least, but yet satisfied her each day.

So, now we keep the right-sized scoops in with the food, and I think we found the happy medium.

Also, she has gotten less wasteful herself. She only throws food she doesn't like. Yet…she behaves as though she's doing the dogs a favor. I believe she really thinks she's sharing her food with them because they truly appreciate it: i.e.; “I don't like this, but the dogs do…so let's satisfy both of us!”

Also, birds will throw food out of frustration and anger. Don't discount that. I mean…what else do they have to throw? They'll throw toys, too…if they've got them to throw.

So, experiment with portion control, and the rest is up to Barney 🤗

My first questions.
What is he eating. When did he stop eating. What are you feeding.
Do you keep track of his weight.
What does his pooh look like.
They can go through phase’s.

For my money, I feed all fresh foods, sprout based diets.
And as much variety as I can.
This works across all species I have dealt with.
Alex is my shoulder parrot.

I do have another 11 mixed species.

Every budgie owner wants their pet, more commonly known as a parakeet, to have the best life possible. A healthy diet is the best route to keeping your budgie happy and alive. A nutritionally balanced diet will make sure he gets the proper nutrients he needs every day. Improper feeding can lead to nutritional imbalances and eventually illness and, in extreme cases, death. However, if you learn to feed him properly, he will have a happy and healthy life.

Your bird is poorly. Have you tried examining your bird? You need to pick your bird up gently in your hand and examine the bird from head to toe, gently, feeling for anything that isn’t right. Also check the wings and underneath the wings. You need to hold your bird to your ear and listen to the bird’s heatbeat. A normal healthy heartbeat of a bird is twice as fast as that on a human being at rest. The bird is definitely poorly. What colour is your bird’s stools? A healthy dropping looks dark green outer rim and solid white in the middle. It is not the bible as there are several variations in outer rim colour, which is still normal. If your bird’s droppings are watery, there is a problem or evey loose green and watery, that too is a sign of illness. I can’t give you a diagnosis because I would have to see your bird to know for sure. But your bird is definitely poorly. Sometimes they catch a chill, especially if the weather is cold, which will cause the stools to look watery or greenish watery. In which case, all you need to do is to keep your bird warm and the bird will recover without treatment. You could try giving your bird some Avipro Plus probioltic, that is what I give my birds when they are poorly. The instructions for use is marked on the side on the plastic jar that the powder comes in. Try giving your bird a hot water bottle, in a jacket and cover that jacket with a piece of cotton sheet. The hot water bottle needs to be placed on a piece of hardboard or a solid top. You need to remove the cage bottom, place the jacketed water bottle on the board, cover with a cotton sheet, then place the cage over the bottle and make sure that it sits flat to whatever you are standing it on. Then you need to cover 3 sides of the cage with a warm cover. Leave one side of the cage uncovered, so your bird will have access to fresh air. If the bird’s condition doesn’t improve within 3 days, then you need to get help for your bird. Good luck and I hope your little bird gets well soon.

Yes, this is very concerning. Birds also shouldn't really be napping much. The occasional nap is fine but napping everyday is definitely indicative of an illness (in most birds).

Not eating is another MAJOR sign of something going wrong. I'm sure your bird is sick, please get it to the vet!!!

…

If you just got the bird, it could be due to diet change, too. Try giving it a mix of fresh veggies, your pellets, and seeds to see what it likes if this is the case. Watch BirdTricks diet conversation videos to help, too ;)

Using corn on top of pellets can intice them to try them. And using mashed sweet potato or moistened and mashed hardboiled eggs can help intice a bird to eat veggies.

Also try chopping the veggies up really really well into tiny pieces to make it harder for the bird to be chosey.

…

I'd recommend a vet visit at an avian-savvy vet (do some research to find a good vet that accepts and seems knowledgeable about birds), either way.

But if you've had this bird for a while and it's not eating it's normal food for some reason, PLEASE get the bird into the vet ASAP….

Good luck!! ❤️

There can be several reasons why a bird might stop eating seeds:

1. Illness or health problems: If a bird is sick or experiencing health issues, it may lose its appetite or stop eating altogether.
2. Change in diet: Birds may stop eating seeds if they are not getting enough variety in their diet. They may also stop eating seeds if they are getting too many fillers, like sunflower hulls, in their seed mix.
3. Environmental factors: Birds may stop eating seeds if the temperature is too hot or cold, if there is not enough water available, or if the feeder is not cleaned regularly.
4. Stress: Stress can cause birds to stop eating. Common causes of stress in birds include loud noises, predators, or changes in their environment.
5. New food source: If a bird has found a new food source, such as a ripe fruit or berry, it may stop eating seeds.

If your bird has stopped eating seeds, it's important to observe its behavior and take action if necessary. If you suspect that your bird is sick, it's best to take it to a veterinarian for a check-up.

Could be a few things.

As we cannot see your bird.

YOU MUST TAKE IT TO AN AVIAN VET NOW!!!

That's how my bird who died of pneumonia acted the morning he passed away.

It was too late for him, sadly and almost a year latter we still feel guilty we hadn't looked up AVIAN animal hospital prior to this.

Regular veterinarian was closed for the weekend.

Though a broken wing etc could be the issue too.

Please look up an animal hospital that's open 24/7/365 and has an avian veterinarian on staff. Keep address and number handy!

They simply didn't show up in Google the day before. 😢

In an emergency you often can't think straight.

Don't stop the seeds outright and give something else in it's place. This will kill your bird because he/she will starve themselves because they aren't familiar with the food.

Find a good pellet brand, what is available depends on where you are. Lafeber and Avi Plus are very good but you don't get Avi Plus in Europe and you don't get Lafeber in Africa, etc. There are other brands like Kaytees but the flavouring agents aren't always safe in large quantities so do your homework and get what is best/available.

On day one, you should give 90% seeds (what your parrot normally eats) and 10% pellets. Keep this up for about a week.

On day one of week two, the ratio should be 80% seeds and 20% pellets.

Week three — 70% seeds — 30% pellets

Week four — 60% seeds — 40% pellets.

And so on.

Until your parrot is eating 100% pellets with seeds in a separate bowl as a snack or given as treats.

You should be giving your parrot cooked vegetables and fruit (but a lot less fruit than vegetables). If you are already doing this, keep it up but don't try to put the pellets in the vegetables/fruit instead because when the vegetables/fruit go sour from the heat of the day, the pellets will become rancid and this will harm your parrot.

If you aren't giving your parrot cooked vegetables and fruit, you should start because they like variety. The pellets will give the right vitamins and minerals, but if they get bored with the pellets they could start with destructive behaviour because their mealtimes are boring and a bored parrot is a destructive parrot.

Edit: If you can see your parrot isn't eating as much on week three, you can increase the pellet vs. seed ratio like in week two, etc. Some parrots take weaning off a specific food quite quickly, others don't. Don't force your parrot to eat x on y day because that is what works for you (or you read it in a Quora response). The most important thing is to keep your parrot healthy. If he eats less because he doesn't like the new food, this will have the opposite effect. See how he/she responds to the ratios and feed accordingly.

If you have a sick bird, it's essential to consult with an avian veterinarian as soon as possible, as home remedies may not always be effective, and a professional diagnosis and treatment are crucial for your bird's well-being. However, there are some general supportive measures you can take while awaiting veterinary care:

Isolation: Place the sick bird in a separate, warm, and quiet area to reduce stress and prevent the potential spread of disease to other birds.

Maintain Proper Temperature: Keep the environment warm, as many sick birds have difficulty regulating their body temperature. Use a heat lamp or heating pad (with caution) to maintain an appropriate temperature, typically around 85-90°F (29-32°C), depending on the bird's species.

Hydration: Ensure your bird has access to clean and fresh water at all times. You can use a shallow dish or an eyedropper to provide water if the bird is too weak to drink on its own. You may also offer a commercial electrolyte solution specifically designed for birds to help maintain electrolyte balance.

Nutrition: Offer a balanced diet suitable for your bird's species. Some birds may not have an appetite when sick, so you might need to hand-feed them using a syringe or a small spoon. Consult with your veterinarian for appropriate food choices.

Clean Environment: Keep the cage clean and dry to prevent further stress and exposure to pathogens. Replace the bedding regularly and disinfect the cage when necessary.

Medications: Only administer medications prescribed by a veterinarian. Never attempt to treat a sick bird with over-the-counter medications without professional guidance.

Quiet and Low-Stress Environment: Reduce noise and disturbances to help the bird rest and recover. Stress can weaken the immune system and hinder recovery.

Observation: Monitor your bird's condition closely and note any changes in behavior or symptoms. Share this information with your veterinarian.

Steam Therapy: Some birds may benefit from exposure to gentle steam. Create a humid environment in the room by placing a bowl of hot water (not too hot to burn) near the bird's enclosure. This can help with respiratory issues.

Remember that home remedies should not be a substitute for professional veterinary care. If your bird's condition worsens or doesn't improve, seek immediate help from an avian veterinarian who can diagnose the problem and provide appropriate treatment.

more info : home remedies for sick birds?

I personally wouldn't be too concerned about it, providing your pet has been in good shape and has eaten regularly up till this point. It could be something simple as it may be getting ready to shed, or maybe there may be too much light inside its cage. And, without knowing the specific type of snake you have, it would only be a guessing game for me. In any case, make sure the temperature isn't too high or too cold, and that clean water and a hide box is available for your snake. Equally as important, try feeding on a regular basis and maintain that schedule if at all possible. Lastly, remember that your snake (wild caught) may be entering the normal hibernation phase at this time of year. If nothing I mentioned helps, consult a vet who is familiar with snakes. I wish you the best.

If he’s not eating,probably needs to be seen by a Vet. But in the meantime,here’s some ideas to stimulate appetite.If you don’t do it already,begin feeding it small amounts of dried sprigs of millet. I cut it into couple inch sections and place in the bottom of the cage..

I used Durastat (made by Durvat)w/Oregano-specially made for poultry. I bought it at a feed/seed store. Mix it up in water dish,use an eye dropper,hold the bird and feed him a couple drops-a few times a day at first.Then leave it in water dish. It’s supposed to help stimulate water consumption and appetite. Also, they like hard boiled egg-easily eaten and digested-chop it up and leave small bits in bottom of cage. I left fresh seed in food dish.

I had a cockatiel that somehow had a head injury and couldn’t hold her head up to eat. I followed these recommendations (from a pet store guy)and she amazingly recovered. She began to eat and drink on her own and lived several more years. Make sure the bird isn’t in a drafty place,not in direct sunlight.Always cover at night…Good luck!

Not really.

Something of that nature happened to me a while back, actually over 20 years ago. My sister and I were enroute to the coast to Bridlington and we came across an injured sparrow flapping around in the road and cars were riding over the top of the bird. I pulled over and ran back to rescue the bird. When I got to the sparrow, the sparrow looked like he/she was dead and as I was carrying the sparrow back towards my car, the little bird opened his/her eyes and we tried to help this bird. We stayed with this bird for most of the day and kept the bird comfortable, we even took the bird onto the promenade and the sand and the bird sat on my lap silently. When I examined the sparrow closely, I could see that this bird had a ring of black bruises around his/her eyes and I suspected an internal injury. This bird had been hit by a moving vehicle prior to us finding the bird. The little sparrow lived for one day then died comfortably in the back seat of our car.

From what you have described, I would imagine that the bird that you found would have been struck by an oncoming vehicle - it is always and usually FATAL.

Hi there , I am humbly sharing this suggestion, please take your Cat to the vet as soon as possible.
If you notice your cat is suddenly not eating, acting their usual self in the fist day and then again the second day , please follow your git, if they aren’t their usual self.

I am not an expert , but I learned the hard way, my dear girl, Petra beautiful cat, suddenly one day didn’t wait for me at her usual spot for dinner , or jump down to encircle my legs like a shark cat, as I got her dinner ready….first day thought it was odd….second day she wasn’t waiting either, but came quickly to eat after I called her ..:I was like, something is up with her !!

but the third day we had to go to work , and she again wasn’t her self, I made an appointment for that Monday and stayed close to her .::she was just such a sweet lovable cat I count imiagine…

Sunday - gave her morning snuggle, bread,play time , fresh water before work-

we came home to find her almost passed, wheezing for air !! We rushed her to an emergency and they did an emergency draining of her chest , she was diagnosed with congestive heart failure ! My while world turned upside down , our precious girl of 15 years !! Abs there was nothing, not even 10K worth of hospitals stay could guarantee she would survive !

..:she was so strong ! She pulled through abs we were able to take her home ….with meds no real hope …:she made it one day , unwt she did t respond and slowly she got mad again as her chest filled with fluid ! It was a nightmare watching someone you loved abs grew with, suddenly stop drinking and eating in less than 6 hours , suddenly slip away slowly and couldn’t do anything to save her ..:so she went in peace , Nov 1 2022, she looked at me abs I knew she was ready to go home :(

meet went to she fav spots the house and garden ….her fave treats ….snuggles…she was so weak , we had the dr . Come to put her to sleep here at home …:the hardest thing IVE Ever done !! Wanting her to live so bad , but knowing each breath now was causing pain..,I was thankful when the dr . Put her to sleep , as she was not suffering , but Now a huge hole in my heart…

she was more than a cat, she was my best friend, loyal companio, sweet , thogjtful , funny, loving and excepting baby girl cat , that over always love and miss forever ….I’m so sorry I went off….still hurts so much, as I’m typing , I’m crying missing my cat .

and that why I don’t want any one to make the mistake I made….please if you see and feel anything is off , take your cat to the vet . It may not be anything , but just in case it may. I pray your cat if feeling better and lives a healthy long life .

thank you for reading🌿 blessings!

Please maintain the cage's temperature. Budgies are sensitive to cold or hot temperatures. Also, they need 10–12 hours of sleep.

Here are some notes that I put together for my birds: Maybe you will also find them helpful. Here, the goal is to share knowledge, not to offend you

Take care of birds (Get a bigger-medium-sized cage always)

Firstly, It’s always recommended to get birds in pairs. They get stressed and lonely by themselves. This sadness can cause them to catch diarrhea, which can be life-threatening. If you have a budgie, male or female, I would recommend you get another bird.

A) Things in the Cage:

1) Cuttlebone (naturally trims beak/nails and gives them calcium for stronger bones)

2) Millet

3) Trail Mix - 1 container

4) Seed Pallet medley (easily available at any pet store) - 1 container

5) Water (you may want to change it frequently, sometimes they poop in it) - 1 container

6) Toys (only cork/natural grass one, also 1 mirror - don't give them fabric or rope toys it can cause tumors)

B) Birds like Cleanliness: Paper towel and gravel paper (available at a pet store or Walmart) at the bottom of the cage so that you can replace it every day - birds really like the cleanliness

C) How do you make your bird feel secure and at home? Cover three sides of the cage with breathable fabric (not too thick); this will give the budgie a sense of security.

D) Maintaining Temperature: They are sensitive to too-cold or too-hot temperatures. You need to make sure that the temperature around their cage is 75-76 F. There are some heaters for bird cages that you can buy (but make the sure size of hearing matches the cage size - you don't want a big heater in a small cage)

E) Bird Sleep: They must get 10–12 hrs sleep. Birds must go to perch by 6–6:30 PM, dim/turn off the light, cover the cage with breathable light cotton fabric (make sure the front of the cage is half covered and there is enough flow of oxygen), and put the cage in a quieter place. Before they go to the perch, make sure they drink enough water and eat enough seeds/treats. They poop a lot; therefore, it's important for them to eat enough before they go to perch.

Disclaimer: Recently, I have observed many women trying to simply accuse others by saying that the facts mentioned in my write-up are wrong. However, when asked why and to share the source, books, or other evidence to support their claims, they had no answers. In other cases, I came across a woman who was just picking on people, including me, for no reason. I immediately understood she was here to vent her frustration.

Just know that all the information in my write-up comes from solid sources and research. I am on this platform to only help bird owners. If you're saying I've mentioned something wrong, please share the sources to support your claims (sources like books, research articles, or credible websites). If you have a bad life and want to criticize people or pick on them, please go for some mental health treatment, and I will BLOCK you right away as I don't have time to deal with any nonsense.

I once heard a story about a man who suspected his wife of adultery, so he went shopping for a parrot to rat out her activities while he was away.

The pet store proprietor had a Hyacinth Macaw that was extraordinarily bright, possessed of an enormous vocabulary, but had hatched sans legs. Polly parrot was perfectly capable of perching due to a prehensile penis.

Purchasing the bird, it was then established in a large aviary in the nuptial bedroom.

Returning from an out-of-town weekend business emergency, the man interrogated the parrot while his wife was at work. “So, what happened while I was away?"

RAWR! Things were quiet until yesterday, when the doorbell rang, and she let a man inside.

“Oh, okay. Then what happened?"

RAWR! Then she and him came back here into the bedroom, her leading him by the hand, and then they started hugging and snogging. RAWR!!

“Hoo boy... sigh... Then what?"

RAWR! After a few minutes she knelt in front of him, and undid his trousers.

" Yeah? And THEN what‽”

RAWR! I don't know.

I got an erection and fell off the perch.

.

There may be reasons other than binge drinking that could explain your avian’s vertical verisimilitude aversion.

.

Originally asked:

" My bird is not able to stand up and he falls over. What is wrong with him?"

I am no expert about this whatsoever, but I did attempt to save a baby bird a few years back.

A pigeon has made its nest in a wall planter at my place of work. One morning, we came up to find that the baby pigeon has hatched. We were so excited to see the little thing grow up over the next few weeks.

The next day, however, we were saddened to see the little guy had fallen from the nest into the lower level of the planter. We had no idea what to do except grab some gloves and try to get the baby pigeon back where in belonged.

The next day, he was back in the bottom level of the planter, face down in the dirt.

It seemed like the baby bird had only been without food for about 24 hours before he died. I'm sure lack of warmth and being away from his mother played a factor, but no food sure didn't help.