Part 1 of 3:Washing Your Guinea Pig
1. Calm your guinea before bathing it.

Your guinea pig will probably become anxious or afraid if you simply place it in a container of water. To relax your guinea pig, hold it close to you, talk to it in a soothing voice, and stroke its fur gently. You can also give your guinea pig a treat such as a lettuce leaf or cucumber slice to distract it.

If you need to bathe more than one guinea pig, wash them one at a time so they don't hurt or aggravate each other. You'll also be able to pay more attention to a single guinea pig than two at a time.

If your guinea pig is acting jumpy, set it in a small box and carry the box to the bathing area.

2. Wipe your guinea pig's soiled fur with a damp cloth.

Before you give your guinea pig a full bath, try removing surface dirt with a damp cloth. Dip a clean cloth in warm water and wring it out. Then wipe the cloth over the soiled patch of fur. If the fur looks clean, you won't need to wash the guinea pig in water.

Avoid using dust treatments that are advertised to keep guinea pigs clean. Since guinea pigs don't use dust to clean themselves, it can actually cause respiratory problems if the guinea pigs breathe it in.

3. Pour 2 inches (5.1 cm) of water into the container.

To prevent your guinea pig from slipping in the container, lay a small cloth in the bottom of the bathing container. Then pour enough warm water to come 2 inches (5.1 cm) up the sides of the container.

Avoid using hot water, which can dry or irritate the guinea pig's sensitive skin. Guinea pigs also dislike cold water since it will lower their body temperature.

Your guinea pig should be able to stand up comfortably in the water.

4. Lower your guinea pig into the water.

Slowly put your guinea pig into the water hindquarters-first. Once your guinea pig is in the water, give it time to adjust to the temperature and feeling of the water. Don't walk away while your guinea pig is in the container.

Stay close so you can reassure your guinea pig. If your guinea pig seems distressed in the water, offer it a treat so it develops a positive association with bath time.

5. Rinse your guinea pig with warm water.

Use a small cup or your hands to scoop warm water and pour it over the guinea pig's body until its fur is wet. Try not to pour water on its face or in its ears.

To prevent water from running into the guinea pig's face, cup your hand behind their face. This should divert water from getting into their eyes and mouth.

Try placing a rolled towel underneath the container so it’s at a 15- to 30-degree angle to help move water away from the guinea pig’s face.

If your guinea pig's face is extremely dirty, use a damp washcloth to wipe off the dirt but avoid the eyes, nose, ears, and mouth.

6. Rub a few drops of shampoo into the guinea pig's fur.

Choose a guinea-pig safe shampoo and squirt a few drops of it into your hands. Gently massage the shampoo into the guinea pig's fur. Be as gentle as you can since their skin is sensitive and you're trying to keep them calm.

Avoid getting shampoo near the face and ears.

Don't use human or dog shampoos on guinea pigs since these could irritate guinea pig skin.

If you only need to spot clean your guinea pig, put a few drops of liquid dish soap into a small container with lukewarm water. Rub the soapy water onto the guinea pig’s fur with cotton balls.

7. Rinse your guinea pig with warm water.

Use your hands and pour enough warm water over the guinea pig's fur to completely rinse away the shampoo suds. It's important to remove all traces of shampoo so the residue doesn't irritate the guinea pig's skin.

Part 2 of 3:Drying Your Guinea Pig
1. Place your guinea pig on a clean towel.

Gently wrap it up so that the towel absorbs most of the moisture and keeps your guinea pig warm. Do not be alarmed if your guinea pig starts shivering. This is natural and they should stop after they're completely dry.

If the towel becomes too damp, use a new dry towel so it absorbs more moisture.

2. Towel-dry the guinea pig's fur.

Use the soft towel to blot moisture from the guinea pig's body. Continue to gently press the towel into the fur until the fur is completely dry. Only wipe around the guinea pig's eyes, ears, or nose if they're gunky or still dirty.

Be gentle when you're toweling, especially near the guinea pig's face. Avoid rubbing or scrubbing the fur.

3. Brush your guinea pig's fur.

This is especially important if you have a long-haired guinea pig. Use a soft-bristled or guinea pig brush to remove tangles and prevent matting. Take your time when you brush your guinea pig because it probably enjoys the soothing feeling and attention.

Pay attention to any bumps or lumps on your guinea pig's skin as you brush. If you have any concerns, talk with the veterinarian.

Part 3 of 3:Keeping Your Guinea Pig Clean
1. Change the bedding once a day.

Remove all of the bedding from the cage and replace it every day. Line the cage with newspaper and spread hay over it. To make the cage even more comfortable for your guinea pig, top the hay with recycled paper pellets or old towels.

Avoid spreading pine shavings since the shavings may contain oils that irritate the guinea pig's skin.

You may also use cloth baby diapers or fleece as long as you change it daily use free and clear detergents when you clean them.

2. Clean

To thoroughly clean the cage, remove all the bedding and make a solution of bleach and water. Spray the solution inside the cage and wipe it down. Then rinse the cage with water multiple times to remove the bleach residue and let it air-dry completely before putting fresh bedding in.

You don’t have to disinfect the cage unless your animals are dealing with an illness, such as ringworm.

Bleach may cause irritation to your guinea pig’s feet, eyes, and respiratory tracts. Try using

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3. Spot clean as needed.

Check the guinea pig's cage throughout the day and droppings or soiled patches if you see them. Do this frequently to keep your guinea pig clean and the cage smelling fresh.

Rinse the food dishes and waterers throughout the day too.

If you’re using fleece bedding, try spot-cleaning with a hand broom you only use in the cage.

4. Keep the guinea pig's hutch or play area away from dirt.

If your guinea pig's hutch is set on dirt, consider moving to either grass or pavement, especially during colder months. If you let your guinea pig run around outside in an enclosure, choose a grassy space that doesn't have exposed dirt.

Dawn dish soap with a rinse of cooled penny royal tea. In my deep sink in the laundry room, I make a little bubble bath for them with the dawn and warm water, about 2″ deep, before putting them in. Soap them up, drain the bubble bath, and rinse them with the tea. About that tea: you can get it in a herb shop but it’s toxic to drink like you would regular tea; it’s medicinal only. In the case of the guinea pigs, its used to kill and ward off the fleas they get from hay. Make it like regular tea though. It needs 15 minutes of steeping to become effective. This should be sufficient cooling time too. Warm is good; cold is bad.

Yes, they can swim, but it would be terrifying for them to be put into deep water where they had to swim and had no way to get out of the water. Some guinea pigs enjoy being in a bathtub where there is enough water in the “deep end” so they can swim, but it is shallow enough in the other end so they can rest.

However, beware of putting your guinea pig into a dirty bathtub, or one which has been cleaned with harsh chemicals. Bon Ami is probably the best thing to use to clean the tub.

Also beware of overly warm water, or water that is too cold. Test how it feels on your wrist. It should feel only slightly warmer than your body temp. I would not leave them in the water too long either, as it may tend to cool off too much and adding hot water to it could be scary and might hurt them.

Guinea pigs don’t need to be bathed unless they have long hair and their behinds get dirty, or unless they are constipated and have a poo stuck in their rectum. In that case being in warm water can help them to pass the poo.

However, you will not see constipation very often if you feed lots of fresh leafy greens twice a day, as much as they will eat. You also will probably not see bladder stones, which are caused by mineral imbalance. Fresh leafy greens are high in magnesium which helps balance the calcium in the hay and pellets.

I’m sorry I am rambling but it is late. I used to bathe my guinea pig in the sink, in water shallow enough where she didn’t have to swim, and she loved that. It was a bonding thing for us because she enjoyed the warm water and the attention. I dried her carefully and held her in a towel until she dried off and kept her away from drafts. However, most of my guinea pigs were never bathed and they really didn’t need it.

ideally as little as possible if short hair ONLY when real dirty, in a shallow bowl with pet shampoo or aveeno baby oats bath wash, use a cup to pour water from neck down do NOT wet head/ears, shampoo again not head, rinse with cup again avoiding head, dry well, hair dryer on low with your hand in front to keep temp controlled or in a very warm room /heat pad( I have nudie pigs so have heat pads for after a bath, grease glands do need a wash often but is best to JUST wash that area with a drop of dish soap only (and warm water obvs) with mine I have 2 who get full baths here and there as long haired, baby wipes on soiled end as and when (bums long hair wet from wee etc) same with short hair bum wipe feet wipe if needed with baby wipes, too much “human style” bathing strips their oils and guinea pigs do self clean, some larger ones(males) will need there butt and penis checked weekly and cleaned with a baby wipe VERY carefully if needed(boar peens are sorta spiky so dry paper towel will catch and chafe

Most guinea pigs keep themselves clean. Some guinea pigs will need a bath and may allow you to give them a bath, while others are very terrified of bathing. You should buy specific shampoos made for pigs. My cavies did not like bath time or being in water, and so I used a -dry shampoo called Pet Sensations which you just spray and leave on. If you do give a bath, you must be very careful to keep your pig warm during wash time.

You should use warm, but not hot water, and thoroughly towel dry your pig after his bath. Some experts recommend using a blow-drier on very low heat or no heat at all after the bath but be very careful. Blow-driers can cause severe burns.Guinea pigs are prone to respiratory infections and that is one reason you need to be very careful to keep your pig warm during wash time. If your pigs gets chilled, their risks of becoming ill are significantly increased. I would not recommend bathing them more than once a month because their bodies are being stripped of oil. Cavies have very sensitive skin. Washing can cause painful itchiness. Between baths, you can wipe the guinea pigs down with baby wipes.

If you're worried about guinea pig smell, some experts recommend adopting females rather than males. Some owners have found that female guinea pigs produce less smell than males. Boars have more of a musky smell and more pheromones.

Method 1 of 3:Cleaning Up an Accident Outside of the Cage
1. Return your guinea pig to their cage.

If your guinea pig had an accident during floor time, it is best to wait until they are back in their cage before cleaning it up. If the mess is a bad one, cut floor time short. Put them back in their cage so that their shavings can catch any further droppings.

2. Pick up droppings with a scoop or a paper towel.

If you have a plastic scoop or spoon handy, you can scoop up any poop pellets. Normally, guinea pig droppings will be small, solid droppings, and it will be easy to pick them up. If you do not have a scoop, you can use a paper towel to pick them up. Do not touch droppings with your bare hands.

3. Blot out urine stains.

If your guinea pig pees on a carpet, get a paper towel and fold it over to create a thick pad. Press the towel to the carpet spot to soak it up. Don't try to rub it away; this causes the urine to soak deeper into the carpet.

4. Spray with a disinfectant.

Once the droppings and urine have been removed, you should use a pet-safe disinfectant. You can use conventional antibacterial sprays so long as you wait a day before reintroducing your guinea pig to the area.

You can also use a solution made of equal parts of white vinegar and water.

You can mix eight ounces of hydrogen peroxide with a teaspoon of dish detergent as well. Test it on a small spot of your carpet to make sure that it won't damage it.

5. Sprinkle baking soda over the affected area.

If the accident occurred on the carpet, you can use baking soda to remove the stench. Sprinkle a handful of baking soda over the spot, and let it sit for fifteen to twenty minutes. Vacuum it afterward. The smell should be gone.

6. Allow the area to dry completely.

Before you let your guinea pig back into this area, make sure that the disinfectant has completely dried. This will prevent them from being exposed to chemicals. You may want to wait up to a full day before letting them back in the area.

Method 2 of 3:Using Lining During Floor Time
1. Lay down newspaper or a fleece blanket before floor time.

This will create a lining between the floor and your guinea pig. This lining will catch any droppings they leave behind while out of their cage. It will also provide a natural boundary for your guinea pig, encouraging them to stay in one place.

2. Roll up the lining after floor time.

Once you have returned your guinea pig to their cage, you can remove the lining from the floor. Fold the edges over before rolling it up. This will prevent any debris from falling off the lining onto your floor.

If you used newspaper, you can throw it out in the trash can.

If you used a fleece blanket, gently brush off debris into a trash can. Wash the blanket before using again.

If any droppings fell off of the lining, you can scoop it up quickly. Keep a plastic spoon and cup handy right next to the cage. Pick the droppings up with the spoon, and drop it into the cup. Dump the cup into the trash can when you are done.

4. Litter train your guinea pig.

Your guinea pig may be able to be trained to only go on newspaper or litter. Every time you see your guinea about to go, move them to the newspaper or a box of litter. Afterward, give them a carrot or other vegetable. Over a few weeks, they may start to only use the litter.

Method 3 of 3:Cleaning the Cage
1. Remove toys, bowls, and other objects from the cage.

All items should be taken out of the cage. Unhook the water feeder from the side. Rinse out the food bowl and water bottle. The toys do not need to be cleaned unless they are covered in feces or urine.

2. Take the guinea pigs out of the cage.

While you clean the cage, you can put the guinea pigs in a smaller carrier case or a closed-off pen on the floor. You can also allow another family or house member to hold them while you clean.

3. Scoop up the shavings with a dustpan.

If you are using wood shavings, you can use a dustpan to scoop it up and dump it into a trash bag. Use a large trash bag and dispose of it immediately. Be careful not to spill any shavings on the floor.

Afterwards, if you choose, you can vacuum up any remaining shavings or bedding.

4. Remove the lining.

If you're using newspaper or puppy pads—either as bedding or as a lining beneath the shavings—you should roll it up before throwing it out. Fold over the edges so that feces and loose shavings do not tumble out.

5. Wash fleece bedding.

If you are using fleece bedding instead of shavings, take it from the cage. Brush off any wood chips, shavings, or poop into a trash bag. Put the blanket in the washing machine. Use warm or cold water and a mild detergent. Hang to dry.

You can add a half cup of vinegar to the wash to deodorize the fleece.

6. Spray down the cage with a pet-safe disinfectant.

Spray the cage and allow it to soak. After letting the disinfectant sit for a few minutes, wipe it down with a clean, dry cloth. Pet stores will sell pet-safe disinfectants. You can also make your own by mixing one part white vinegar to one part water.

7. Replace the bedding.

Wait until the cage is completely dry. Once it is, you can put fresh, clean bedding back in the cage. You want to make sure that there are no gaping spaces on the floor of the cage. This will make cleaning easier for next time.

If you use newspapers, line the bottom with overlapping sheets so that the entire floor is covered.

If you are using shavings, dump a fresh layer that is 1 to 1.5 inch (2.5 to 3.8 cm) thick.

If you use a fleece blanket, drape it over the bottom and straighten it out so that the floor is completely covered.

8. Return the toys and feeders before putting your guinea pigs back.

Make sure everything is dry before you put them back in. Don’t forget the water bottle and food bowls. Cleanings should take place weekly. Your guinea pig’s cage should not smell. If it does, it will require another cleaning.

9. Spot-clean your guinea pig's cage.

Between cleaning sessions, scoop out any droppings, debris, or soiled patches and replace with fresh bedding. You should do this once a day to maintain the cleanliness of the cage. Keep a regular schedule for spot-cleaning.

at a young age you tell it how cute is . I touch it a lot . Naturally.. as it grows you buy it the coolest things that are in style. Still natural touching side arm hugging upon departure. Then they become mature. The day of the 18’th week. You take it out for the occasion. At the end you confess your intentions.’ That you actually intend to breed her repeatedly for the rest of her pathetic life and reap all the benefits from her rapes.’ Never seeing natural sun light in a small cage with some crumbles to lay on and a wheel to run …’but she will never leave. Having her children taken at young age’s only to have another round being put in her. Now that your doing good you improve productivity and find two or three young ones to put different blood lines . Then you take the same steps as before and next thing you know. You’ve got six breeders to make more more and more.’ That’s how you groom Guinea pigs

We use critter shampoo. You can also use baby shampoo. They have a grease gland right where their tail should be. That grease gland can get sticky and gross - hay and hair and dirt get stuck to it. That spot I do pretreat with mineral oil to soften it up, and then wash with Dawn detergent (just the spot) and even comb it gently to get the crusty build up off. Anything else like dried pee can just be rinsed off with a dunk in water.

I find the grease spot way worse with boars than sows.

They do clean themselves, but mine sometimes like to shove bedding aside, pee, and then lie in it, so they get stinky.

Method 1 of 3:Caring for Your Guinea Pig’s Hair
1. Brush its hair regularly.

Long-haired guinea pigs require daily brushing to prevent their fur from getting tangled and developing knots. If you do come across any knots, a comb may be handy to remove them. For short-haired guinea pigs, you only need to brush and comb their hair once a month.

You can buy guinea pig specific brushes and combs at most pet stores.

If you do not brush your guinea pig regularly, its hair may become so knotted that your only solution is to cut it off.

2. Cut your guinea pig’s hair.

A long-haired guinea pig’s hair grows about an inch a month and will require regular cutting. Once its hair begins to touch the ground, trim the hair so that it does not drag. You may also want to cut your long-haired guinea pig's hair to a comfortable length in the summer. This will keep it from overheating.

Keeping your guinea pig’s hair off of the ground will prevent it from becoming wet with urine and feces that may be on the ground in its cage. Regular trimming can prevent health issues, such as urinary tract infections, associated with bacteria.

When giving your guinea pig a trim, consider using round-tipped scissors with guide combs to avoid cutting its hair too short.

If you and your guinea pig live somewhere that is not climate controlled in the summer, you will want to keep your pet comfortable by cutting its hair. Long-haired guinea pigs are susceptible to overheating.

3. Trim your guinea pig’s backside.

Some long-haired guinea pigs are prone to urinary tract infections because the hair on their backside collects bacteria. This can be the result of it coming into contact with the ground and being soiled with urine and feces. Because of this, you mustn't neglect to trim your animal’s backside.

4. Bathe it.

Guinea pigs rarely need baths. Some never need to be washed. However, your guinea pig may become stinky and need a bath. Place your guinea pig in a small bowl of warm water and gently scrub them with a shampoo for small animals. Be sure to quickly dry the animal with a towel to avoid it getting too cold and becoming sick.

If you want to kill two birds with one stone, try cutting your guinea pig's hair while it’s still wet from the bath. Wet hair is easier to cut than dry hair.

If your guinea pig has dandruff is itchy or sheds more than normal, it may have a parasite or fungal infection on its skin. Take your animal to the veterinarian and do not shampoo it unless the vet gives you a medicated shampoo. Washing it may dry out its skin more and make the condition worse.

Method 2 of 3:Cutting Your Guinea Pig’s Nails

Guinea pig nails grow constantly and need regular grooming. You should cut your guinea pig’s nails once every four to six weeks to keep them maintained. You can cut the nails yourself or take the animal to a veterinarian for clipping.

The veterinarian or a vet tech will likely show you how to trim your guinea pig’s nails if you are unsure.

You can use a pair of human nail clippers or a blunt tip pair designed specifically for trimming the nails of small animals. The smaller opening of the human clippers makes it more difficult to cut off too much of your guinea pig’s nail.

2. Place the guinea pig in your lap or on a flat surface.

When you go to trim your animal’s nails, sit the guinea pig in your lap or on a stable surface, like a counter or a table. Hold the guinea pig in place with your non-dominant hand and use your other hand to operate the clippers.

If your guinea pig squirms a lot, you might want to ask someone to hold the guinea pig while you trim its nails.

3. Hold its foot.

Grab one of its feet and hold it firmly in your hand. You want to hold it firmly enough that it does not move while you are cutting its nails, but not so tightly that you hurt its foot. Try to spread the foot between your fingers to make it easier to get to the nails.

If your animal is making noises like it is in pain, you may be squeezing its foot too tightly.

4. Cut the nail at an angle.

Inside a guinea pig’s nail is a blood vessel known as the "quick." You will want to cut your animal’s nails at an angle to avoid cutting into the quick, as cutting the quick can be very painful and result in bleeding. Try clipping the tip of the nail at a 45-degree angle to avoid cutting into the quick.

If you animal’s nails are light-colored, you should be able to see the quick as a pink coloring in the nail. However, if they are dark, you may need to shine a light up from underneath them to see the quick.

If you do not regularly cut your guinea pig’s nails, they may curl back into the pads of the foot and result in severe pain and possibly infection.

5. Dip its nail in styptic powder if you cut too deeply.

If you cut into your guinea pig’s quick, dip the wound into styptic powder, which is an antihemorrhagic agent. This will stop the bleeding and help numb the pain from the cut.

Method 3 of 3:Practicing Other Grooming Habits

Your guinea pig’s teeth will grow throughout its life and they may get too long and become painful. To prevent this, you should provide your guinea pig with things to chew on like unpainted woodchips, straw, twigs, or even empty paper towel rolls. Along with unlimited hay. These things will help naturally wear down your guinea pig’s teeth and keep them from getting too long.

You should check your guinea pig’s teeth once a month to make that they are not getting too long.

If your guinea pig stops eating, its teeth may be sore and preventing it from eating properly. Consult your veterinarian about getting your animal's teeth clipped.

2. Check your guinea pig’s ears.

To keep your animal’s ears from becoming infected, you should check them every week and clean them every two weeks. Use a soft cloth to gently wipe the part of the ear that you can see. Be careful not to delve too deep into the animal's ear, as this can hurt it and impact debris in the ear canal, which can, in turn, result in an infection.

A drop of mineral oil on the cloth may also help with the cleaning process.

3. Clean its grease gland.

Both male and female guinea pigs have a grease gland on their lower back. Male guinea pigs are particularly greasy and secrete a sticky and pungent oil from this area when they are courting females or fighting other males. This grease can build up on your guinea pig’s hair and skin, making your animal smell bad and lead to an infection of the gland. Use a cotton swab with a non-abrasive oil or soap to clean the area of grease.

4. Prevent fleas.

Your guinea pig may get fleas at some point. The best way to deal with this problem is to bathe your animal and scrub it with shampoo. To avoid fleas in general, you should regularly clean your guinea pigs cage and change out its bedding.

Do not use flea removers designed for other animals. This may make your guinea pig sick and kill it.

Part 1 of 2:Bathing a Pregnant Guinea Pig

There are all types of shampoos for pets. For your guinea pig, make sure the shampoo is made specifically for small animals (it should say so on the bottle). A small animal-specific shampoo will keep your guinea pig’s skin from drying out or becoming irritated. Since your guinea pig is pregnant, the shampoo should also be non-medicated to prevent ingredients absorbing through her skin that could harm her unborn babies.

Anti-fungal and anti-parasitic shampoos are medicated.

Look for shampoos that are soap-free and made of natural ingredients.

Do not use human shampoos on your guinea pig. They have chemicals that would be harsh on her skin.

Do not purchase small animal shampoos with essential oils.

Shampoos are available at your local pet store. Your veterinary clinic may also sell shampoos.

2. Obtain your other bathing supplies.

In addition to the shampoo, you will need a few other items to bathe your pregnant guinea pig, including towels and a soft-bristled brush. If you would rather not bathe your guinea pig in a sink, you will need a small plastic tub. Also, a plastic jug or large plastic cup will be useful for pouring water on your guinea pig during the bath.

A non-slip mat is essential because it will prevent your pregnant guinea pig from slipping in the water. You would not want her falling on her belly in the water.

If you have a hairdryer, you could use that to dry off your pregnant guinea pig. However, the noise of the dryer can be bothersome to guinea pigs, so you may want to stick with drying her off with some towels.

3. Prepare the bathing area.

You should have everything organized and in place before you bring your pregnant guinea pig to the bathing area. First, run some lukewarm water in either the sink or plastic tub. Fill the area with just enough water to come up to her stomach (or a little below, if that makes you more comfortable). She should be able to keep her head comfortably out of the water.

If you are using a non-slip mat, place it in the sink or tub before adding water.

Place some towels near the sink or tub.

The brush does not need to be near the bathing area unless you plan to dry her off in that location.

4. Bring your guinea pig to the bathing area.

You will need to be very careful with how you handle your pregnant guinea pig. The safest way to move her is in a box. Place a small cardboard box with one side folded down in her cage so she can easily walk into it.

When she is in the box, raise the side that is folded down and gently lift the box out of the cage. Walk slowly to the bathing area and place her carefully in the sink or tub, without putting much pressure on her belly.

Allow her to adjust to being in the water. You may need to keep your hands on her so she doesn’t try to jump out.

5. Wash your guinea pig.

To get her wet, fill the plastic jug or cup with lukewarm water and gently pour the water over her. You should still use the jug or cup if you have your guinea pig in the sink, since getting wet by being held under a running tap could be frightening for her. You do not want her experiencing any additional stress when she is pregnant—this could put her unborn babies at risk.

Avoid getting any water on her face or in her ears.

Use a gentle, circular motion with your fingers to work the shampoo into your guinea pig’s fur. Be extra careful when you wash her belly.

Try to avoid lifting your guinea pig as you bathe her to avoid putting any extra pressure on her belly.

Talk to her in a soothing voice throughout the bathing process.

Pay special attention to her back end. Because of her increased size, she may have trouble grooming herself, which could lead to feces getting stuck in her fur. If you see feces in her fur, try to break them up with the water and shampoo. It would be a good idea to wear gloves to do this.

6. Rinse your guinea pig.

Part 2 of 2:Drying Off a Pregnant Guinea Pig

After your guinea pig’s bath, she should be completely dry before you move her back to her cage. This is to prevent her from getting chills from being wet. This may take some time, depending on how long her hair is.

2. Use towels to dry off your guinea pig.

Lift her gently and wrap her in a towel, being sure not to hold her in a way that puts any pressure on her belly. Dry her off with the same gentle motions as you did when bathing her. Also, be extra gentle when drying her belly.

If you’d like, you can sit on the couch and watch TV while you are drying her off. There is no need to rush the process.

When the first towel gets damp, wrap her in a new, dry towel and continue drying her off.

If she is feeling relaxed after her bath, you may hear her start to purr with contentment!

Brush her with a soft-bristled brush after she is completely dried off. This will remove any loose or excess fur.

If you noticed crusted feces in her fur during the bath, check the area again when you are drying her off. If the feces are still there, use a pair of small scissors to cut out the crusty fur.

If you would rather use a hairdryer than a towel to dry off your guinea pig, you will need to be very careful with how you use it. First, set the hairdryer to the lowest possible heat setting. Hold the hairdryer about 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 centimeters) away from your guinea pig and turn it on.

If you are unsure if the hairdryer temperature is too hot, test it against your skin. From 20 to 30 centimeters back, if the heat from the dryer is too hot for your skin, then it is also too hot for your guinea pig.

Use your soft-bristled brush to brush the fur as you are drying. Brush in the direction of hair growth.

If you notice your guinea pig becoming uncomfortable with the dryer, stop using it. You do not want to add any extra stress to your pregnant guinea pig.

No, guinea pigs (and all rodents) keep themselves clean with self-grooming. It can be dangerous to the health of your guinea pig to bathe him. Guinea pigs frighten easily and get stressed over things like baths. Guinea pigs have been known to become so stressed and frightened during procedures such as baths that they have died suddenly of heart attacks.

In addition to guinea pigs becoming stressed, they are prone to respiratory infections. Pneumonia is a serious threat to their health and is one of the most common causes of death in these animals. During a bath, a guinea pig can easily become chilled which is enough to bring on a respiratory infection which can lead to a deadly pneumonia.

There are some situations in which it seems necessary to bathe a guinea pig such as when it is soiled, particularly on its rear end. Show guinea pigs are frequently bathed prior to being shown. Long-haired guinea pigs, especially the Peruvian which has hair that grows up to 20″ long, need daily grooming and occasional bathing.

So how do we deal with soiled guinea pigs, show guinea pigs, and long-haired guinea pigs in light of the dangers of bathing? For the show and long-haired guinea pigs, they are introduced when very young to grooming and bathing so they become very used to it (just as show dogs become used to grooming) and they don't seem to be stressed out by it. However, the risk of pneumonia is still a problem.

For non-show guinea pigs, show guinea pigs, and long-haired guinea pigs, the first thing to do is prevent dirt or soiling. The guinea pig’s cage must be kept super clean (good ventilation and clean bedding are necessary to prevent respiratory infection also). Poop and urine build-up will not only smell, but it will soil the guinea pig’s coat and cake on his rear end and feet.

The ideal thing to do is spot-clean, if possible, using a damp washcloth, unscented baby wipes, or waterless shampoo. If these methods don't work and a bath is necessary, these steps must be followed for the best outcome:

1. The guinea pig must be kept warm at all times. Use warm (not hot) water and make sure he never becomes chilled.
2. Use special shampoo made for small animals or rabbits because guinea pigs have very sensitive skin.
3. After rinsing the shampoo off, thoroughly towel dry the guinea pig. Do not use a blow dryer (even on low) because it can burn the delicate skin.
4. Hold the guinea pig close to your body until he is completely dry so he remains warm.
5. Put the clean guinea pig in a new, thick bedding of clean hay.
6. Watch the guinea pig over the next few days to make sure he is eating and behaving normally. If you notice anything off or see runny eyes or nose or any signs of lethargy, bring your guinea pig to the vet asap.

I’ve had to do this only once. I had moved to another town with the two dogs and a cat I had at the time. The cat really was not a good traveler, absolutely hated being in his hutch during the ride. So he peed and pooped all over himself the entire way.

When I got to my destination, it took two of us to bathe the cat. I filled the bathtub about halfway with warm water. Then I had to grab the cat by the scruff of his neck and hold, hard, to keep him immobilized while my girlfriend at the time scrubbed him. When it was done, she gave the signal, I let go and we both jumped the hell out of the way.

The cat didn’t want to have much to do with me for a couple of days after that. But at least he didn’t crap on my pillow — which is a common way for cats to exact revenge. He was actually a really cool cat; my two dogs had more or less raised him from a tiny kitten. I miss that cat.

• Clean your guinea pigs’ cage at least once every week. A complete cleaning involves discarding all of the used bedding, not merely "spot cleaning" the dirty spots. After removing the old bedding, wash the bottom and sides of the cage with soap and water, rinse thoroughly, then place fresh, new bedding in the cage.
• Spot-clean the guinea pigs’ cage daily. Particularly if you have multiple guinea pigs in one cage, you should clean out parts of the cage daily in addition to the once-a-week deep cleaning. To spot-clean, remove and discard any areas of soiled bedding at the end of the day.
• Litter-train your guinea pigs. Spot cleaning will become easier if you can train your guinea pigs to use a litter box. Identify the area that your guinea pigs tend to use as a toilet area. Then place a litter box made for small mammals in that corner of the cage.
• Use a cage cleaning spray. Cleaning sprays specifically formulated for small animal cages can help minimize cage odors. Check your local pet store for products that are safe and effective for guinea pigs.
• Use an odor control bedding. Bedding formulated to block odors, such as CareFRESH Advanced Odor Control Small Animal Bedding, can keep the cage smelling fresh longer.

ABOUT BATHS:

Most guinea pigs should be able to keep themselves clean. If the situation is very bad you can bathe him with some specific shampoos that are safe to use are Scentsations Premium Small Animal Shampoo and Posh ‘n Go Protein Shampoo, but bathing guinea pigs may increase their risks to becoming ill, as they become chilled easily.

So, be careful.

Keep Bathing to a Minimum

Overall, it's best not wash your guinea pig extra than once a month, and most short-haired breeds only need it once or twice a year. Like cats, guinea pigs are great self-cleansers and it's rare for them to need bathing.

A soothing bath is okay if your pig has gotten especially stinky or its hair is oily and soiled. Long-haired guinea pigs are remarkably prone to getting dirt and wash stuck in their locks and might require bathing. However, if your piggie is mainly dirty in just one spot, like on its bum, wiping it clean with a towel might suffice.

The other reason to bathe your guinea pig is if they have a parasitic or fungal infection. In this instance, a bath should only come at the recommendation of your exotic vet, who will give you detailed instructions for bathing.

For those rare occasions, your guinea pig needs a wash, you can get the job done using a shallow bowl or pan, a few towels, and special guinea pig shampoo. Before starting, spend time holding your guinea pig, as this will help calm them. Always bathe your pigs in a warm room and use warm, shallow water. When bathing, be sure to keep your guinea pig’s nose and mouth out of the water.

How Often Should I Bathe My Guinea Pig?

You need to soak that foot. Probably easiest to put piggie in a bath with a bit of gentle pet shampoo and soak for a bit to soften that up and then gently rub the stuff off. A soft, soft tooth brush may serve nicely, or a bit of terry towelling should do the trick.

Once clean, rinse the piggie and then make sure it can dry off where it’s nice and warm so it won’t get a chill.

You may find it helpful to use some fabric to ‘sling’ the pig - run a band about the width of its belly right under the belly and hold the ends up over its back so it can’t try to get out of the bath. Use something like a flat bottom glass or ceramic baking dish or maybe a cooking pot for the bathwater so it won’t rock like a lot of bowls will. The temperature should be at least 99–103F ( their body temperature) or a bit warmer but not hot. If it’s just a foot, no need for a lot of water - an inch or so deep would be ok.

Original question: How do I get my guinea pig to stop chattering when I clean the cage?

Your guinea pig might be frightened, and maybe with good reason. You probably have to move his hidey house and other cage furniture and some of this, if dropped on him, could hurt him badly or cause him to have to be put to sleep.

It is a good idea to have a small carrier and put him in it before you start cleaning the cage. It is good to get him used to the carrier anyway, so he won’t be upset going to the vet. If he doesn’t like the noises and vibrations of the car you could try to play this album. All my guinea pigs loved it. I think the soft, chime sounds are similar to guinea pig language.

Remember to put down some paper towels in the bottom of the carrier and give him something pleasant to do while he is there. A moist vegetable like lettuce is a favorite and the water content of the lettuce will help him not to get thirsty while he is waiting. But if it takes you more than 20 minutes to clean the cage, a small, stable bowl of water would be a good idea.

Then, before you put him back in the cage put all the cage furniture in its original places so you don’t have to move things around while he is in there. Another piece of lettuce would also help him to calm down, and will further reinforce the pleasantness of the cage cleaning process. Soon he will start to look forward to it.

Part 1 of 4:Making Your Guinea Pig Comfortable

Do this by gently placing one hand around its chest, keeping your thumb beneath the guinea pig's jaw. Use your other hand to support the guinea pig's hindquarters, holding it upright between your two hands.

It's important to handle your guinea pig firmly enough that it won't fall, but not so firmly as to injure its body. Be aware that if your guinea pig is prone to nervousness or skittishness, it may try to squirm out of your hands and jump, which can lead to serious injury.

2. Take your guinea pig out of its cage.

Once your guinea pig is properly restrained, move it into a safe, enclosed space from which it can't escape. Make sure somebody is around watching your guinea pig, and that there are no loud noises around that may scare it. Someone can hold your guinea pig if you want.

3. Groom your guinea pig, as necessary.

Long-haired guinea pigs need to be brushed daily. If you need to groom or bathe your guinea pig, it may be easiest to do so while your pet is out of its cage.

Unless your guinea pig has gotten sticky or smelly, it should only need to be bathed a maximum of 2-3 times per year.

4. Give your guinea pig someplace to hide.

Your pet should be used to having a designated hiding place in its permanent cage. When you remove your guinea pig from its home, it may become frightened. If you can't fit its permanent hiding place into the temporary enclosed space, make a small temporary space by cutting the bottom out of a cardboard box.

Part 2 of 4:Cleaning Your Guinea Pig's Cage on a Daily Basis
1. Spot-clean the cage.

Remove excess food and waste and spot-clean the cage as needed with a wet paper towel. Scoop out any soiled bedding and replace it with dry, fresh bedding.

2. Refill food and water.

This should be done every single day. If your guinea pig spills water into the food dish, remove that food and replenish the dish with fresh, dry food.

3. Wash food and water dishes in hot, soapy water.

Doing this every day will help prevent bacteria from growing in the food and water receptacles.

Part 3 of 4:Conducting Weekly Cleanings
1. Plan to conduct thorough cage cleanings about once every week.

Though daily maintenance and spot-cleaning are necessary, you will also need to thoroughly clean out your guinea pig's cage once every week. This will ensure that your guinea pig is healthy and happy, and its environment is odor-free.

2. Remove everything from your guinea pig's cage.

When you're doing a thorough cage cleaning, remove all of your pet's toys, as well as its food bowl, water bottle, and hiding place.

3. Wash the water bottle and food bowl.

A guinea pig will often get pieces of bedding and/or droppings into its food bowl, so it's important to clean food and water bowls regularly.

Empty any leftover food and water. Then run some hot water and submerge the water bottle and food bowl. Leave them in the sink to dry while you clean out the cage.

If your pet's hiding place can be washed, it's a good idea to rinse it off as well.

4. Take your cage to where you plan to clean it and get a large garbage bag.

Carefully brush everything into the bag, removing all substrate material from the enclosure.

For really big cages, it is handy to have a cat-poop scooper to scrape out the cage. Do not use the same one as your cat, dog or other pet.

5. Spray the inside of the cage down.

You can use a mild detergent, or mix three-parts warm water and one-part distilled white vinegar. You can also use 1 part bleach to 32 parts water (1/2 cup bleach to 1 gallon of water).

For deeper stains and messes, use undiluted vinegar, but make sure to clean off well afterward!

Allow the disinfectant to sit on the surface for 10 minutes so that it has time to work, killing bacteria and other harmful elements.

6. Rinse the cage out.

After allowing the disinfectant to sit, thoroughly rinse off every surface of the cage with hot water. Make sure there is no residue from the disinfectant on any surface.

7. Dry the cage with paper towels.

If you have the time, you can let it air dry. It's important to be sure your guinea pig's cage is completely dry before laying down the newspaper and bedding, as dampness can quickly cause a mold problem that can lead to illness for your pet.

Part 4 of 4:Setting Up Your Pet's Home
1. Line the cage with fresh and clean new newspaper, then fill with bedding.

You should make the bedding about 1-3 inches deep, or 2.5-7.6 centimeters.

You should . Though these wood chips are often sold for use in cages, they actually contain chemicals which can be harmful to your guinea pig.

Generally speaking, hay makes a good bedding choice. But damp hay can harbor fungal growth, and dry, dusty hay could cause respiratory problems.

Putting down new bedding and newspaper on a damp surface can quickly lead to mold and fungus growth in the cage.

3. Put the cage back together (if you took it apart) and put the toys and things back in their places.

Hide your pet's favorite treats in paper towel rolls or hang them up by a piece of string. (But make sure your piggy can reach it!)

4. Control the environment.

Remember that guinea pigs need a constant temperature, and your pet's cage should not be exposed to direct sources of heat or cold. It's best to keep the room temperature from dropping below 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21.1 degrees Celsius) or getting above 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32.2 degrees Celsius).

“What is the best way to give a cat a bath without getting scratched to bits?

If a cat is not infested, infected, or filthy I generally don’t bathe it.

Every year or so, I give my cat a “bath” with waterless shampoo. It softens his fur and makes him smell nice. Even he likes the result.

However, if a real water bath is in order, keep in mind that cats seem to give their “regular human” a harder time about bathing than they give to some “random human.”

Cats seem to be shocked that their trusted guardian is doing such an awful thing. Doesn’t seem to bother them (or they are scared) when a non-guardian human does the deed.

I’ll make a deal with a friend — I’ll wash her cat and she can wash mine. Or, if the particular cat in question is a real jerk about baths, I’ll send him to the vet or a groomer.

Sometimes, yes, if they go for too long not having their cages cleaned. I had Peruvian Long haired guinea pigs, which were gorgeous & cute, years ago growing up. Naturally, THEIR under fur could get dirtier than was acceptable to my mother. So, we prepared a warm basin with LOTS of towels on the side, mixed a bit of Baby Shampoo into the warm water. It's important that the water level be low enough not to be above the guinea pig's noses, naturally!

We just swished the warm bath water, mostly to clean their underbellies. After enough soapy cleansing, we lifted each guinea pig cozily into a 1st towel, quickly let out the soapy water, then refilled the basin with fresh rinse water, to remove ALL soapy water from their fur. Long haired guinea pigs were very mellow, & seemed to enjoy the gentle baths. The long thick fur required blow drying on LOW, to avoid the guinea pig catching cold.

A popular short haired guinea pig is not likely to need this special maintenance, but IF your guinea pig soils itself & doesn't smell too nice, a bath like the above is always welcome.

OK, for one, this is a question I’ve never come across! How did your guinea pig come into contact with soapy water? You should check the ingredients of the soap packaging or bottle. Keep an eye on anything in bold or that looks long or scientific. If they swallow any chemicals, it could be lethal. Also check the packaging for any signs that indicate that the soap is natural and safe. The soap will be diluted because of it being mixed with water.

You should definitely check your guinea pig thoroughly for anything unusual, such as refusal o food or water. Remember, these signs might not be all physical!

I think you should definitely call your local vet, whatever the symptoms. You don’t want to risk anything! If you are absolutely sure that you guinea pig is OK, then you don’t have to, but I do recommend you do.

I hope that helps, and all the luck for your guinea pig!

Gorgeous Guineas is, so far, the only company to completely dedicate themselves to creating safe shampoos and other skincare products for guinea pigs. Most other shampoos, even if they market themselves for pets or babies, contain ingredients that can irritate a guinea pig’s sensitive skin. Gorgeous Guineas does not. I’ve settled on using their Kind ‘n Gentle Lavender Shampoo for my girls with normal skin and their Manuka & Neem Shampoo for the ones who have dry or irritated skin, but I recommend looking at their full array of products and seeing which ones work for you. Since Gorgeous Guineas uses essential oils and natural ingredients, their products do have an expiration date. If you only have one or two pigs, I recommend purchasing whatever shampoo you want in a trial size. A trial size bottle of shampoo with only a few pigs will last you plenty of time if you’re only bathing them every couple of months — as you should be, if they don’t have skin issues. Gorgeous Guineas is a UK-based company, so shipping can be a little high if you don’t live there, but I believe the price is well worth it for quality guinea pig shampoo.

Aside from Gorgeous Guineas, I also like to have a waterless shampoo (unscented is always better) on hand. This can be useful when I don’t feel like giving a pig a full bath.

I do not recommend this shampoo for regular bathing, but if your pig has dry, flaky skin, miconazole shampoo could help with that.

WaterWipes are a brand of baby wipes that only contain water and a bit of fruit extract. I love them and can never get enough of them. They’re great for wiping off the poop that can sometimes get stuck to pigs’ feet, as well was cleaning off small patches of dirt. You can use them to wipe the cage down while cleaning it, too!

A guinea pig, or cavy, is a very fragile pet that requires more attention to detail than most people realize.

You must make sure your pet has fresh water, veggies of the correct variety, hay, pellets and grass every day. Keep piggies home clean and fresh by changing or cleaning the bedding at least twice a week, and contrary to a common practice (by people who have not done their homework) you should not use cedar or pine shavings as bedding for your guinea pig as both can be highly irritating to piggies respiratory system and can trigger an allergic reaction that can manifest in a chronic skin problem. Also, according to the Guinea Lynx website, the phenols, or aromatic oils, used in the shavings to kill insects can also cause liver damage in your guinea pig. Therefore, and considering how tender their little feet are, I prefer, and recommend using fleece. It is soft, inexpensive, easily cleaned, and urine passes straight through and into a double thinkness of absorbant material underneath, leaving piggies area dry and comfortable.

As for feeding: Absolutely NO Chocolate, as It is Poisonous to your pet!, Also no cookies, crackers, breakfast cereals, bread, pasta, yogurt drops or other "human treats." Feed your pet fresh veggies every day and make sure to include some leafy greens to aid digestion and help everything come out all right…And mix it up some so your pet doesn't get too much of one and too little of another. Fruit should be offered up only once or twice a week.

Additionally, and just as important, your pet needs grass hay every day, which not only aids digestion, but affords piggie the opportunity to grind their teeth down to manageable length. With out something fibrous to gnaw on, your pets teeth could grow so long as to actually become a hindrance to eating and possibly cause other issues as well.

The second cutting of Hay is ideal, as first cuttings are too hard for guinea pigs and has a lot more stems in it. Also, alfalfa hay should be avoided as it is too high in calcium and can lead to the formation of stones which are not only painful for your pet but painful for you as well since often surgery is required to remove them.

Along with the other daily requirements, your pet should have available 1/8 cup of timothy hay pellets specifically formulated for guinea pigs of your pets age group.

Caing for a guinea pig may now seem a daunting task. However, once you have mastered the "do's and don'ts" your guinea pig can provide you with years of enjoyment.

Guinea pigs are quite susceptible to heat stroke, particularly those that are overweight or have thick long coats. Environmental temperatures above 85⁰F, humidity above 70%, and inadequate shade and ventilation put your guinea pig at risk.

Air conditioning is the best way to prevent heat stroke. If this is not available, a misting with cold water can help, as can a fan operating over a container of ice.

Signs of heat stroke include panting, drooling, weakness, reluctance to move, convulsions, and ultimately, death. If you see any of these symptoms please bring your pet to a veterinarian immediately.

Most Guinea pigs don't need baths. If you bathe them they could drown or hurt themselves in the water although some guinea pigs can use a natural instinct to swim. This does not mean it is a good idea to plonk a guinea pig in a tub of water.

If you have a long haired guinea pig, they will need baths however, you have to be extremely careful and brush water into their fur instead of like I wrote earlier plonking them in a tub of water. The water has to be cold because hot water could burn them.

If your guinea pigs smell, then it might be a good idea to wipe their stomachs very gently as that is where most grime collects. However, you must be very careful and sometimes it is not worth it.

Thank you for reading. Hope i helped :)